Window cornices add elegant touch to room

My decorating partner, Matt Fox, and I have found that window cornices function equally well over draperies, Roman shades, soft shades or wooden blinds. Their primary purpose, of course, is to conceal ugly drapery rods, but Matt and I have found that they help in other areas, as well.

Since cornices are usually covered with fabric, they can add a touch of color, pattern or texture to a room. They also can be used to make small windows appear larger and more proportionate.

Cornices add a custom look to a room, but they don't have to be costly to be beautiful. In just a few hours, you can build your own. To make cornice boards, you'll need the following materials:

Tape measure

1/2-inch thick plywood

Fabric

Fabric batting

Two 2-inch L-brackets

Circular saw

Wood glue

Small finishing nails

Drywall screws

Hammer

A cornice board is constructed like a four-sided wooden box. The fifth side of the box (back side) is formed by the wall, and there is no bottom.

The first step in cornice making is to measure your window and decide on the placement of the cornice. Your cornice should be positioned so that it will cover all drapery and blind hardware and still allow for the movement of both. For the length of the cornice board, measure the drapery rod or blind and add 2 3/4 inches to each side.

To determine the depth of the cornice, be sure to measure with the curtains open to allow for extra thickness as the curtains bunch together. The depth should equal the depth of any open window treatments, plus an extra inch.

Cornice boards may be any height you wish, but try to keep the overall size proportionate. A rule of thumb to determine the cornice height is to measure the width of the window casing and add 6 inches.

To begin building your cornice, cut the two side pieces to the desired depth and height. Next, cut a piece of plywood to the length and height necessary for the face piece of your cornice (don't forget those extra inches). Finally, the length of the top piece should be the same as the face piece and its width should be a half-inch less than the depth of the side pieces. Attach the top piece to the face piece using a thin bead of wood glue, then nail the pieces together with small finishing nails. Using the same process, attach the sides to the front and top. The frame for your cornice board should now be complete.

Next, attach the batting to the frame. Place the batting on top of the plywood, folding it over the frame to the reverse side, similar to wrapping a present. Be careful not to pull the batting too tightly, as it tends to stretch out of shape easily. Staple the batting in place on the back of the frame.

Attach the fabric you've chosen for the cornice in the same manner. If the fabric has a distinctive pattern, be sure that it stays straight on the frame. Start in the center of the frame and work out toward the ends. The concern here is keeping the fabric straight and taut to the frame.

You can finish the insides of the cornice by stapling in muslin to cover the raw edges of the batting and fabric. To hide the staples, you can hot glue trim around the edges if you'd like.

Attach 2-inch L-brackets in the wall with drywall screws at least one inch above the drapery rods so as not to hinder their operation. Then place the cornice board in position and attach the board to the secured brackets.

As you can see, cornice boards are a relatively easy do-it-yourself window treatment. Why not try building a few yourself this winter? Not only will it be a great cure for the mid-winter blahs, the cornices will add a special touch to your room for spring.

Shari Hiller and Matt Fox appear together frequently on Home & Garden Television decorating programs. Visit www.hgtv.com or www.mattandshari.com.

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