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Friday, April 30, 2004

Cheap Eats: Piecora's NY Pizza & Pasta

Homesick New Yorkers love to debate the finer points of what constitutes a true New York pizza and where to find it in Seattle. Piecora's NY Pizza & Pasta may be it for some, judging by the loyal crowds that have frequented this popular Capitol Hill restaurant since 1981.

I found the pizza crust to be more chewy than crispy, and slightly thicker than I expected -- not the super-thin crust with slightly charred bottom that my hard-core Manhattanite friend marks as the gold standard. But the hand-tossed pies were tasty with a slightly sweet tomato sauce.

New pizza combinations are introduced every few years, joining a tried-and-true lineup that includes the Manhattan (artichoke hearts, black olives, mushrooms and coppacola), or the Brooklyn (pepperoni, mushrooms and olives).

Combination pizzas range from $17.75 to $21.50 for whole pies, $9.95 to $12.25 for half pies. A slice of cheese pie is $1.95. Create your own pizza or order by the slice.

As much as I enjoyed the pies, I was equally drawn to hearty pasta dinners. Paired with cold beer, the spaghetti and meatballs -- delightfully old school -- hit the spot ($8.95). The cannelloni didn't skimp on the Italian sausage filling ($8.25).

Piecora's NY Pizza & Pasta, 1401 E. Madison St.; 206-322-9411. Hours: Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Saturday 12 p.m.-midnight; Sunday 12 p.m.-10 p.m.

-- Phuong Le

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