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Wednesday, June 30, 2004

Starbucks tries pouring out the calories and fat
That rich, creamy coffee drink in your hand is packing more than just a caffeine buzz

By MEGAN PATRICK
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER

In a world of fat-free cheese and low-carb bread, there's a place where sugar and indulgence reigns -- the coffeehouse. Especially in the summer, when frothy, creamy, iced delights are even more irresistible.

"I know Frappuccinos are bad, but what can I say? I'm an addict," said Kyle Boys, who sipped a 12-ounce mocha Frappuccino over lunch at a Starbucks on Queen Anne Hill yesterday.

 photo
 ZoomMERYL SCHENKER / P-I
 Ginger the dog helps Sally Landefeld, 12, with her Frappuccino at the University Village Starbucks yesterday.

Boys' blended beverage -- like most, served with whipped cream -- weighs in at 310 calories and 12 grams of fat, which is almost skinny compared with many cool, summery coffee drinks on the market.

It may seem counterintuitive to say coffee is fattening -- and, indeed, a regular cup of joe has just 10 calories. But at places from Baskin-Robbins to Caffe Ladro, coffee's being accessorized with a little milk, a splash of chocolate, even a scoop of ice cream. That's when things can get considerably more caloric.

Starbucks' 20-ounce Java Chip Frappuccino with whipped cream, for example, rivals a Big Mac with its 650 calories and 25 grams of fat.

In an attempt to appease health-conscious java lovers, Starbucks is debuting its lower-fat, lower-calorie version of Frappuccino -- the Frappuccino Light -- today. Made with lower-fat milk and artificial sweeteners, it ranges from 150 to 180 calories and 10 to 15 grams of fat per 16-ounce serving, depending on the flavor.

But will anybody care? The answer from Seattle coffee drinkers seems to be a resounding "no" to "diet coffee," from Starbucks or elsewhere.

"If I'm going to drink a Frappuccino, I'm going to go all the way and just indulge myself," said Sumit Sen, who chose an iced breve -- simply espresso and water -- at Diva Espresso in North Seattle yesterday.

"What's the point?" said Shuanna Holt, a barista at the Peet's Coffee in Larry's Market.

Peet's offers a blended drink -- the Freddo, available in a variety of flavors. A 16-ounce cafèe Freddo has 180 calories, but watch out for the whipped cream -- at Peet's, it adds 12 grams of fat and 112 calories.

Surprised that your afternoon coffee break can have so many calories? Diane Javelli, a clinical dietitian with the University of Washington in Seattle, said many people do not count the calories they slurp, whether it's coffee, juice or soda.

"I think often we have the perception if we're drinking it, it doesn't have to have calories," she said.

What's in that drink?

When compiling a diet history, Javelli often walks through her patient's coffee drink choice, breaking down flavoring, milk fat and anything else in it.

She doesn't necessarily recommend cutting out lattes altogether -- after all, there is protein, calcium and vitamin D in that milk -- but she does often counsel patients to try a smaller size or limit themselves to just a few drinks a week.

For kids, however, Javelli is more cautious. The fat and calories in drinks like Frappuccinos might be enough to give a parent pause, she said, and the caffeine is a stimulant that youngsters probably don't need.

Kelly Sheppard, public relations manager for Starbucks, said developers have been working on the Frappuccino Light for the past two years to keep the flavor but reduce the caloric glutfest.

Carl Sibilski, an analyst with Morningstar in Chicago, said he has not seen any evidence that sales of the higher-calorie Frappuccinos are down.

The move to offer light drinks follows an industry trend toward more healthy foods, which could expand Starbucks' customer base, he said. But he doubts the light Frappuccinos will be a blockbuster item, because people seem to see high-calorie drinks as an affordable indulgence they deserve.

The trick may be to make the healthy feel indulgent.

Tully's has offered the relatively low-fat Spin (2 grams of fat, 306 calories) for some time.

Tully's barista Shawn Burdette says the company has been constantly reworking the dairy-based treat, and added, "They've finally gotten it right. It's absolutely delicious and not all that bad for you."

Dilettante Mocha Cafe downtown makes its blended frappe from scratch, right down to its signature chocolate sauces.

For the few weight watchers who stray into Dilettante, Kerry Bowers recommends a drink made with the dark chocolate sauce, which is 72 percent chocolate, cutting calories by leaving less room for sugar. The chocolatier even offers sugar-free chocolate.

"But we don't really have many people looking for low sugar in here," he said, laughing.

This report includes information from The Associated Press. P-I reporter Megan Patrick can be reached at 206-448-8224 or meganpatrick@seattlepi.com
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