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Wednesday, December 15, 2004
Wine Pick Of The Week: Scharffenberger Brut ($17)
It's back. After several years' hiatus, the Scharffenberger sparkling wine from Sonoma is again in wine shops.
Founded in 1981 by California native John Scharffenberger, the wine quickly became a cult favorite during a time when French Champagne houses were proliferating in Northern California. Then in 1989 Scharffenberger cut what many believed to be a dream deal when he sold the winery to Pommery Champagne house, which allowed him to remain as winemaker with complete control over production. But in 1998 he left the winery to found the Scharffen Berger gourmet chocolate company, where he remains today. In 1998, under new ownership, the name was changed to Pacific Echo and all the cache that was built by Scharffenberger and the previous owners seemed to evaporate until last summer, when the winery was purchased by Champagne Louis Roederer and the decision was made to reprise the Scharffenberger label.
It's important to note that throughout most of these changes the quality and style of the wine has never wavered, mostly because Tex Sawyer, the man making the wine, has remained on the job and will continue his tenure with the new owners.
The Scharffenberger Brut is a non-vintage blend of two-thirds pinot noir, which gives the wine its richness and red fruit character, and one-third chardonnay, which gives it tropical nuances as well as its elegance. The wine developed further complexity by resting two years on its lees. To find the wine call Noble Wines at 206-326-5274.
-- Richard Kinssies
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