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Friday, January 28, 2005
Cheap Eats: Burney Brothers BBQ
The unlikeliest spots always turn out to be the likeliest places for finding great barbecue. That's a good first argument for trying Burney Brothers BBQ, which opened shop a few months ago in a Lake Forest Park food court.
It helps that it has good company to start with, namely the Honey Bear Bakery, and a great customer draw in Third Place Books. Brothers Steve and Tom -- Steve's credentials include managing the bar at the Mayflower Park Hotel -- framed the storefront in tall, pleasantly raw-looking slabs of timber, fired up a Southern Pride smoker, and got cooking.
And, hey, while it isn't Pecos Pit, the bros get enough points for flavor that we'll be back, especially because we like that they're trying a few things that slide slightly outside the standard barbecue menu. Our favorite was the barbecued turkey ($6.25 sandwich, $7.95 combo plate with two sides, full of dry, smoky flavor in a thin sauce that tasted faintly of clove. That beat out the also decent but less full-flavored pork ($6.25 sandwich) and ribs ($11.95 for a half-slab). This region is in desperate need of any sort of breakfast burritos, and for that we welcomed the breakfast wrap, ($5.75), available with choice of brisket, pork or chicken, but found it over-cheesy. Stuffed potatoes ($4.95) and salads ($5.25) also come with choices of meat toppings.
Burney Brothers BBQ, 17171 Bothell Way N.E., Lake Forest Park; 206-417-6200. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday; 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday.
-- Rebekah Denn
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