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Friday, February 4, 2005

Ask The Critic: A few schnitzels, fo' shizzle

Q: I want wiener schnitzel and I don't feel like driving to Leavenworth to get some. Why is it so hard to find a good basic German wiener schnitzel in Seattle?

-- Anonymous caller

A.: We're weak on full-service German restaurants here in Seattle, there's no doubt about it. Perhaps the dearth is due to the fact that Leavenworth is so very Bavarian and only 120 miles from Seattle. Or maybe it's a function of something more basic -- like demand. Suffice it to say, at present Seattle does not seem to support a full-service restaurant serving the culinary specialties of Germany and Austria -- not to mention the Czech Republic, Hungary or Poland. Having said that, there are a couple of places in greater Seattle where you can find wiener schnitzel -- veal cutlet that's dipped in egg, bread crumbs and fried, or its pork-cutlet cousin, jager schnitzel. In Ballard, The People's Pub (5429 Ballard Ave. N.W.; 206-783-6521, www.peoplespub.com) offers wiener, jager and paprika schnitzels ($14.50 each) on its regular menu, along with versions of Rindsrouladen ($15), paprika sour cream chicken ($14.50) and goulash made with Oregon Country natural beef ($15). Jagerschnitzel ($15.50-$19.50) is also the signature specialty at Chef Ludger Szmania's Jager Restaurant & Bar (148 Lake St. S., Kirkland; 425-803-3310, www.jagerrestaurant.com) and Szmania's (3321 W. McGraw St.; 206-284-7305, www.szmanias.com) in Magnolia . Guten appetit!

-- Penelope Corcoran

Have a question? Call 206-448-8391, e-mail askthecritic@seattlepi.com, write Ask the Critic, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, 101 Elliott Ave. W., Seattle, WA 98119-4220. Answers to selected questions will be used in future columns.
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