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Friday, September 23, 2005

Pinch yourself over the crab dip at See Sound Lounge

You can be forgiven for checking out the back-lit liquor bottles, long sleek bar and dolled-up hipsters and assuming that See Sound Lounge is another soulless New York city knockoff. Sink into one of the low-slung boxy couches and you might think this place is all style over substance, it can't be serious about food.

  LOUNGE BITES
 

SEE SOUND LOUNGE

WHERE: 115 Blanchard St.; 206-374-3733; www.seesoundlounge.com

HOURS: 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Tuesday-Sunday (though Tuesdays tend to close earlier, bartenders warn); Happy hour from 5-8 p.m. daily with eight half-priced appetizers

BAR: Monster list of cocktails and martinis, lots of different vodkas, champagne and some beer and wine

MUSIC: DJs every night, each with a theme ranging from down tempo to house to Sunday night salsa

TOP TASTES: Dungeness crab and artichoke dip; edamame; cheese plate; Caesar salad; ravioli

SMOKING: No smoking

PARKING: Very limited street parking

ACCESS: No obstacles

You've got to delete those assumptions like a bad online date.

The scene doesn't really get hopping until later in the evening, say around 9 when DJs show up nightly and mix their tunes. That leaves plenty of time to savor the thoughtful, well-prepared and affordable menu at the inconspicuously situated Belltown lounge.

Sip a glass of the delightfully cheap and quaffable happy hour champagne ($3 a glass from 5-8 p.m.). Or try one of the countless, though costly, fancy martinis ($9).

And then start ordering little plates of food to share with pals. The edamame (fresh soy beans) are lemony and crusted with chunky sea salt, while an olive appetizer is served warm and fragrant with anise ($4). The Dungeness crab and artichoke dip with big chunks of crab to be scooped up with toasted bread is almost embarrassingly cheap during happy hour ($4) and not a bad deal other times ($8).

The Caesar salad has a hint of anchovy and shaved Parmesan over the top ($8). Mint and cilantro flavors sprout up throughout the generously portioned flank steak salad, though the greens in a sesame dressing got limp ($10). Another pleasant surprise was the $10 deep dish of ravioli in a spicy tomato sauce (preparation changes seasonally).

-- Lisa Stiffler

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