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Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Cafe Flora's long-awaited cookbook is a must

By HSIAO-CHING CHOU
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER FOOD EDITOR

Cafe Flora is a place of community. It was created by three friends who wanted to establish a vegetarian restaurant that would belong to the neighborhood, be friendly to the environment, and be nurturing to employees. So, it would make sense that when it came time to produce a cookbook the community would be involved.

The "Cafe Flora Cookbook" (HP Books, 258 pages, $25.95) began in 2000 with a bunch of recipes from nearly a decade of kitchen collaboration by various chefs. Cafe co-founder Scott Glascock spearheaded the effort with Catherine Geier, who was executive chef from 1995 to 2000.

"We started off backwards," explains Geier, who had wanted to take a break from being the executive chef and thought the book would be a good project. "We started gathering recipes, a lot of which were ones customers requested."

She scaled down the recipes for home cooks and distributed them for testing.

"But it didn't feel like it was going smoothly. Many of our dishes were hard to scale down and getting the procedure written clearly was hard."

Geier took a year off from the book and went to the East Coast to spend some time. After returning to Seattle, she enlisted the help of Glascock's friend Carol Brown, who is a technical writer. Brown worked on clarifying the recipes so they would make sense to a home cook.

"Then we started looking for a publisher, and at that point, we started writing the book proposal," Geier says. Typically, a cookbook project begins with a proposal, which helps sell the idea to a publishing company and serves as an outline for the author to keep the book on track.

"We wanted the recipes to be well-tested," Geier says. "It was important to us to have them be accurate, so we gathered a group of people across the country to test the recipes."

This process allowed Geier to discard dud recipes and to adjust others according to the comments of the testers. About half of the testers were friends of the writers and cafe owners from across the country and the other half were locals, who gathered recently at Cafe Flora to celebrate the launch of the cookbook.

 photo
 ZoomGrant M. Haller / P-I
 Lisa Maki tastes an asparagus and mushroom-pate pizza at a Cafe Flora party to launch the vegetarian restaurant's cookbook.

Doug Stumberger, who is vegan, and his wife, Julie Blakeslee, who is on the Atkins diet, found a happy medium at Cafe Flora.

"It's one of the few places in Seattle where a vegetarian or vegan can look at an entire menu of options," Stumberger says. "It's fun to have gone here and then read the recipes and try them without having to worry about substitutions."

Blakeslee, who seeks protein for her diet, disliked tofu until she ate at Cafe Flora.

"They won me over with fried coconut tofu," she says.

The coconut tofu involves marinating cubes of tofu in a ginger-tamari-miso mixture, then dipping in coconut milk and dried coconut before frying. The fried cubes are then served with lettuce for wrapping and the cafe's Sweet Chile Dipping Sauce.

Even non-regulars and non-vegetarians were asked to test recipes. The Rasmussen/Phillips family of three, who tested Janine's Wasabi Potato Salad and some of the pizza recipes, think they are proof that the food is good.

"We're not vegetarians, but we eat organic," Laura Phillips says. "We didn't miss the meats."

Maggie Carr loved the Autumn Stroganoff recipe she tested and has made it many times since her introduction to it.

"It's so savory and so earthy," says Carr, who tested four recipes.

David Foecke, co-founder of the restaurant, tested the Stone Fruit Pizza with Brie and Toasted Almonds.

"I'm very excited to see the book after many years of a lot of work by a lot of people," he says.

He explains that Glascock, who died in May this year from cancer at 63, was the person whose passion for the community and for food set the tone for the restaurant and, therefore, the book.

"It's always been a collaborative process and we have a community approach in terms of recipe creation," Foecke says. "We also endeavor to give back to the community by hosting (and contributing to) fund-raisers."

Even though there is an executive chef, orders aren't handed down from atop. If anyone had an idea for a dish, it would get equal consideration. Geier emphasizes that the non-hierarchical structure was the reason she stayed as long as she did.

"I do like working as a team and training and motivating people. Cafe Flora encourages it and it made it easier to work in that kitchen."

The cafe also takes comments from diners seriously.

"The owners wanted Cafe Flora to be an anchor of the neighborhood," Geier says.

The only missing link is Glascock.

"It's sad not to have him here physically, but you can look at anything here and you can see Scott," Foecke says.


CURRIED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
MAKES 9 CUPS

  • 1 medium butternut squash (2 1/2-3 pounds)
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 1 large yellow onion, diced
  • Salt
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons minced, peeled fresh ginger
  • 2 tablespoons curry powder
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
  • 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 (14-ounce) cans coconut milk
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • Optional: Pinch of cayenne pepper or hot sauce

Peel the butternut squash and cut it in half. Remove the seeds, and cut into 1- to 2-inch chunks.

Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and saute until the onion is soft and translucent, about 10 minutes, stirring several times. Add the garlic and ginger and cook 2 minutes more.

Add the curry powder, cumin and coriander, and saute for 15 seconds, stirring constantly. Add 4 cups of water, the butternut squash and bay leaf, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook, covered, at a low boil until the squash is soft, about 20 minutes.

Remove the bay leaf and puree the soup in batches in a blender, being careful to fill the blender jar no more than halfway.

Return the pureed soup to the pot, add the coconut milk, and bring just to a boil. Take the soup off the heat, add the lime juice, and salt to taste. Add cayenne or hot sauce if you want, and serve.


WARM PEAR SALAD WITH ORANGE VINAIGRETTE AND SPICED WALNUTS
SERVES 4

  • 2 ripe Anjou or Bartlett pears at room temperature, ripe but not mushy, unpeeled
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
  • 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 8 cups loosely packed, hearty salad greens such as curly endive, watercress, chard, escarole, kale or a mix
  • 1 cup Spiced Walnuts (recipe follows)
  • 1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

Halve the pears and remove the cores and stems. Cut the pear halves lengthwise in 1/4-inch-thick slices, and set aside.

Combine the shallot, orange zest, juice, vinegar, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the olive oil until combined.

In a medium saucepan, warm the vinaigrette over medium heat until hot. Add the pear slices, and gently turn the pears until they're completely coated and warm, about 2 minutes.

Put the salad greens in a large bowl. Pour the pears and the vinaigrette over the salad greens, add half of the spiced nuts, and toss gently, trying not to break up the pear slices.

Pile the salad greens onto a deep platter, making sure pear slices are evenly distributed among the greens. Scatter the top of the salad with the spiced walnuts and the cheese. Serve immediately.


SPICED WALNUTS
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

  • 1 cup walnut halves
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon each ground cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander and cumin
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a baking sheet. Put the walnuts in a mixing bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil, tossing to coat the nuts thoroughly.

Mix the spices and salt, and sprinkle the mixture over the walnuts, tossing again to coat fully. Toss again with the powdered sugar.

Spread the walnut mixture on the greased baking sheet. Bake 10-12 minutes, until crisp and brown, stirring the nuts halfway through the roasting time so they toast evenly. Cool completely before serving.

MORE SEATTLE FLAVOR

Local books abound this fall. Check out these other titles:

  • "Rover's" (Ten Speed Press, 256 pages, $40) by Thierry Rautureau and Cynthia Nims: This long-awaited book finally has hit the shelves. Rautureau shares the secrets to his stunning food and the story of his upbringing in a region just south of the Loire Valley in France. In addition to Rover's favorites, such as the scrambled eggs with lime creme fraiche and caviar or pork belly, there is even a chapter on vegetarian dishes.

    www.rovers-seattle.com

  • "Autumn Omakase" (Tastingmenu.publishing, 124 pages, free download) by Tatsu Nishino and Hillel Cooperman: The second of Tastingmenu's electronic cookbooks, "Autumn Omakase" celebrates a fall menu from Nishino sushi restaurant. The book, which offers "obsessive details," has been launched to celebrate Nishino's 10th anniversary. The beautiful photographs by Peyman Oreizy and meticulous wording take the home cook step-by-step through each recipe.

    www.tastingmenu.com/autumnomakase

  • "Assaggio Ristorante Cookbook" (Documentary Media, 144 pages, $24.95) by Mauro Golmarvi: Golmarvi shares recipes from his Italian restaurant, insisting throughout this little book the importance of freshness, seasonality and passion. His enthusiasm in the book is infectious.

    www.assaggioseattle.com

  • "Tini Bigs Big Martinis" (Documentary Media, 96 pages, $19.95) by Keith Robbins and Patrick Haight: You will find everything from the classic to the Pear-a-dox (gin, cognac, pear nectar) to Hot Havana Tini (three kinds of rum, spices, orange juice). This irreverent book is perfect for gift-giving.

    www.tinibigs.com

    -- Hsiao-Ching Chou

    ABOUT CAFE FLORA

    Cafe Flora, 2901 E. Madison St.; 206-325-9100; www.cafeflora.com

    The cafe will participate in the following events:

  • Oct. 17 -- Cookbook kickoff prix fixe dinner. The menu will feature seven courses for $49. Catherine Geier will be available to autograph copies of the cookbook, which will be on sale for 25 percent off the cover price. Call the restaurant for reservations.

  • Oct. 21 -- Cookbook signing from 6 to 8 p.m. at Dish It Up, 2425 33rd Ave. W.; 206-281-7800.

  • Oct. 25 -- Cooking class with Catherine Geier at Whole Foods, 1026 N.E. 64th St.; 206-985-1500 (Ext. 0; ask to register for the class). The class will be from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and costs $40.

    P-I food editor Hsiao-Ching Chou can be reached at 206-448-8117 or hsiaochingchou@seattlepi.com.
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