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Friday, November 4, 2005
25 for $25 pitch brings together great restaurants and great prices
Seattle's restaurants are throwing the city another party, and this year we decided to attend.
| YOUR TAKE ON 25 FOR $25 | |||
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The "25 for $25" promotion, Seattle's version of Manhattan's successful "Restaurant Week," brings together 25 fine-dining restaurants who agree to offer a three-course, prix-fixe meal ($25, of course, for dinner; some also offer a $12.50 lunch) through Nov. 30.
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| Gilbert W. Arias / P-I | ||
| Eva Restaurant's tiger prawns with a spiced lentil salad are followed by a dark chocolate tart with caramel, pecans and chocolate whipped cream. | ||
Newcomers to the deal this year are Campagne, Eva and Fish Club, and we dined at all three when the promotion began this week. Our experiences are recounted below, but first, a little history:
A core group of restaurateurs and associates got the deal going in March 2002 after seeing the success Manhattan was having with its annual dining-deal promotion, when prix-fixe meals were offered for a song.
"We felt there wasn't a venue, or conduit, to be able to expose the incredible chefs and restaurants that we had," said one of the founding members, Karl Bruno, food and beverage director for the W Hotel, home to Earth & Ocean. "We said, we really should find a way to build a stage here."
It was a tough sell in the beginning just to get 25 restaurants on board, said publicist Lissa Gruman. Businesses were being asked to collaborate rather than compete, and there was no way to tell whether it would attract one-time visitors looking for a bare-bones deal, or serve as a pipeline to introduce new customers who would turn into loyal fans.
The first year, said Bruno, the promotion bumped up business 40 percent at Earth & Ocean. Even with the lower prices, restaurants didn't take a financial hit, as the festive groups ordered fancier drinks or non-prix-fixe extras. In the post-9/11 economic doldrums, Gruman believes some restaurants stayed alive because of the promotional boom. And by the second year, a list of restaurants were waiting to join in.
It hasn't always gone flawlessly. Some restaurants choose not to keep participating, others aren't invited to return. There have been guidelines and guidance on making sure the meal is truly a bargain, on making sure it's available to everyone, and that it's prominently offered.
"The logic of it is that every restaurant puts forward their best menu possible ... if you build it so it doesn't have a great value and isn't showcasing the best of what you do regularly, you're not doing yourself any favors," said Bruno.
At this point, though, it's running pretty smoothly, reaching the status of biannual institution.
It has inspired a spinoff September promotion, the lower-tiered $20 "Dinner at 8" special. It has spurred some other chefs to offer competing draws, such as the Waterfront Seafood Grill offering a lobster special as "a decadent alternative to many prix-fixe menus being featured in November." And it's even raised some questions, as when noted chef Ethan Stowell of Union recently told the P-I he thinks the relentless cycle of the promotion is holding back Seattle's restaurant scene.
Full details and menus are online at www.nwsource.com/25for25, but here are our tips and impressions after trying the new arrivals:
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| Gilbert W. Arias / P-I | ||
| Campagne's mild, delicate dumplings of halibut and fluke paired with a butter lettuce salad that got a spark from pickled mackerel. | ||
Here's how we found this year's new participants:
86 Pine St., Pike Place Market
206-728-2800; www.campagnerestaurant.com
For the price, simply fabulous. We actually enjoyed it more than our last full-freight meal at the fine French restaurant. Complimentary additions at each table -- fresh gougères to start, and chocolate truffles with the check -- made it feel even more like a special event.
There were no duds, but our top choice for hors d'oeuvres was the paté de Campagne, a hefty, luscious, livery slice served with mustard and bread. That beat out the light, simple squash soup with a swirl of creme fraiche, and a salad with salt-cured mackerel whose large serving bowl made it appear a skimpier serving than it was.
For entrees, we swooned over the tender beef bourguignonne, served in red wine sauce with an earthy depth from porcini mushrooms, with pearl onions and little squiggles of spaetzle. Equally impressive at the first bite, although a little intense by the last, were two highly flavored garlic sausages, a mix of pork and beef that didn't weigh us down as heavily as that amount of meat usually does. They were served on perfectly pureed potatoes, with roasted apples on the side. The single dish that wasn't special enough to order again, though we liked it fine, was the delicate "quenelles de poisson," dumplings with a mix of halibut and fluke, served in a mild leek cream. Desserts are open game from the regular dessert list, ranging from creme brulee to tarte tatin to fig clafouti. We especially liked the twice-baked chocolate cake, richly set off by butterscotch ice cream.
Service was finely tuned and flawlessly helpful.
Are there any catches? Only one: The menu is scheduled to change Nov. 13. We're doggone tempted to try it again.
-- Rebekah Denn
2227 N. 56th St., Green Lake
206-633-3538
Eva offers interesting pairings that don't always work. Drawn from its current menu, the $25 options were hit-and-miss.
Starters were the best course. Steamed Penn Cove mussels were plump and tender. Tiger prawns, served with a lentil salad and yogurt-mint dressing, were nice, but the dressing was a tad bitter. A salad of Cameo apples with greens and toasted walnuts was fine, but nothing special. It was difficult to detect the promised Oregon blue cheese in the vinaigrette.
Entrees were generously sized, but a mixed picture of flavor, with either the centerpiece or the side failing to please. Best was the grilled chicken breast, well-seasoned and nicely semicharred. The side of gigantes beans flavored with celery root was a bit of a letdown.
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| Paul Joseph Brown / P-I | ||
| Fish Club's mixed seafood grill combines crustaceans, swordfish and halibut, and comes with a side of tangy-sweet couscous. | ||
Grilled pork loin was bland, but its side of braised cabbage with roasted apple and browned spaetzle fared well together. A pan-seared albacore tuna was nicely seasoned on its own, but did not pair well with the accompanying tomato-olive compote. And the roasted fingerling potatoes with frisee were fine, but uninspiring.
Sadly, dessert didn't bring the desired payoff, though it's wonderful that five choices are offered. I'm no sweet hound, but the restaurant's touch with sugar is too light. My friend liked her goat cheese panna cotta, drizzled with honey. I've never tasted a saltier dessert and could eat no more than one bite. A fruit crisp with apple, pear and quince sounded good, but was average, except for the vanilla bean ice cream.
Pumpkin cheesecake with maple creme fraiche was the best of the evening, but wasn't in the same league as others I've had.
The decor is simple but welcoming. Wine options were plentiful and interesting, and the service was generally good.
-- Kristin Dizon
2100 Alaskan Way, waterfront
206-256-1040; www.fishclubseattle.com
Two words: Arrive hungry.
We tried the lunch special here (which has some crossover with the dinner promotion, but some different dishes as well), and thought it was not just a deal, but a steal at $12.50. We were full by the end of the appetizers, and thought the quality and selection would have been dinner-worthy too. It didn't match the heights of Campagne, but, of course it's a different style of food. The brightly posh surroundings in the Marriott Waterfront hotel were swarming with staff who frequently checked in with us; service overall was chipper and casually good.
Choose from five appetizers: Top honors went to the roasted mushroom flatbread with goat cheese crema, topped with leaves of fresh basil and cress. Two small, plump Dungeness crab cakes were packed with crabmeat, although the mild flavor was a little overpowered by the big pillow of tarragon aioli and red lentils.
Scallops were the star entrée, nicely seared, on a bed of house-made pappardelle with a sauce of diverse ingredients that made a delicious mix. We also liked the swordfish topped by an unusually strong, mustardy vinaigrette, served on mashed potatoes and crisp-tender green beans. The scallop and swordfish in the mixed grill (along with a prawn and chunk of halibut), surprisingly, didn't have the same nice touch, although we enjoyed the tangy-sweet Turkish sauce on the Israeli couscous accompaniment. Desserts were a light, cool, "frozen" apple souffle, a delicious, crisp-topped pumpkin bread pudding, and groaningly heavy s'mores with thick cookies.
-- Rebekah Denn
Restaurants participating in 25/$25 this month are:
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