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Friday, November 3, 2006

Mexican cafe is a tasty lesson in geography

By LISA STIFFLER
P-I REPORTER

How many states in Mexico can you name? Four, maybe five -- out of 31. Some clues: One's the breed of Paris Hilton's dog Tinkerbell, another is the same name as the country and everyone remembers Baja California, right?

  CHEAP EATS
 

SEŅOR MOOSE CAFE

ADDRESS: 5242 Leary Ave. N.W.

PHONE: 206-784-5568

HOURS: 8 a.m.- 3 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 8 a.m.- 3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday

Brush up on your south-of-the-border geography by sampling dishes from around Mexico at the casual, comfortable Seņor Moose Cafe. Cafe owner Kathleen Andersen has lived and traveled in Mexico for the better part of the past 30 years. She recently brought her love and mastery of the cuisine to Ballard, completing a surprising local trifecta of delectable Mexican restaurants with La Carta de Oaxaca and Esperanza.

Most of the dishes on Andersen's menu are referenced with the state of origin -- scrambled eggs with chorizo from Michoacan, tortas from Jalisco, an almond mole from Oaxaca. She searches for ingredients imported from Mexico and roasts her own peppers in the traditional style.

"I just really want people to know about this food -- it's not all burritos and nachos," Andersen said.

 photo
 ZoomPAUL JOSEPH BROWN/P-I
  A feast at Seņor Moose Cafe in Ballard starts with Heuvos Motuleņos, foreground, an egg scramble sweetened with ham and plantains.

Andersen and the servers are friendly and eager to help diners navigate the menu, so be sure to ask for guidance as needed.

Breakfasts are primarily variations of egg dishes served with firm black beans and corn tortillas. The Huevos a la Mexicana -- hailing from Nayarit -- is a great scramble that includes jalapeņo and cilantro. Get it with chunky avocado to make it a little lusher and more filling ($8.95). The more adventurous Huevos Motuleņos was sweetened with ham and plantains ($8.95). And be sure to try the coffee. The beans are imported green from Mexico and roasted locally for the cafe ($2).

In the evening, try out the rich, slightly bitter mole with chicken or pork, inspired by the version found in Tlaxcala ($14.95). Seared strips of carne asada are served on a plate with spicy strips of poblano chile and refried beans ($15.95), or in five tacos ($10.95). Cheaper -- but still filling -- tostados come with assorted toppings for $7.95 to $9.95.

Save room for a big wedge of Pastel de Tres Leches, an angelic white cake soaked in milk ($4.95).

Webtowns
More headlines and info from Ballard/Broadview/Blue Ridge.

P-I reporter Lisa Stiffler can be reached at 206-448-8042 or lisastiffler@seattlepi.com. Post-Intelligencer food critics arrive unannounced and pay for all meals and services.
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