Wine Pick Of The Week: 2003 Forgeron Cellars Columbia Valley Syrah ($30)

Appearances are deceiving when it comes to Marie-Eve Gillas. The petite, soft-spoken French ex-pat is a winemaking force to be reckoned with. Just ask the many grape growers who found their relationships terminated by Gillas because they did not listen to how she wanted her grapes grown. And she's just as exacting in her Walla Walla winery as she is in the vineyards. The result: some of Washington's most elegant wine.

I was first impressed with her winemaking about a decade ago, shortly after she arrived from France. Her style has varied little since. She seems to have found that elusive spot where elegance and sense of place (typically a European notion) and the American propensity for richness and power can co-exist.

Gillas understands that blending grapes from different sites can add complexity and synergy to a wine. The 2003 syrah is a blend of no less than five Washington vineyards, contributing to the wine's impressive complexity. The wine has deep, rich aromas and flavors that remind me of dark sweet cherries and spices such as pepper, cinnamon and a hint of clove. I also like the way the wine's components (acid, tannins, alcohol, sweetness) play off of each other. This important aspect is called structure. This is a great wine for the hearty fare we begin craving this time of year. Try it with a braised shank of lamb or a soup made with a medley of beans or roasted root vegetables.

To find the wine contact Elliott Bay Distributors at 206-935-9463.

-- Richard Kinssies