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Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Last updated 10:38 a.m. PT

cree
Gilbert W. Arias / P-I
Veil pastry chef Dana Cree puts pure heart, analytical curiosity and extreme talent into her delicious and original desserts.

On Food: Get a seat at the tables of these promising chefs while you can

By REBEKAH DENN
P-I RESTAURANT CRITIC

We make a lot of lists this time of year, reviewing the big events of 2007 and the exciting things we expect to come.

 yee
 ZoomGilbert W. Arias / P-I
 Multitalented, self-taught chef Lorna Yee pops up all over the Seattle food scene. One night she might be cooking at the private dinner club Cache, the next day taking first prize in a Salumi contest.

On the food watch list, there's the new place coming from the post-Herbfarm Jerry Traunfeld. And there's the question of how Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi will do in their own restaurant, Joule, after their fascinating Northwest debut at Coupage.

But the names of three lesser-known chefs also emerge: Dana Cree, Neil Robertson and Lorna Yee.

Serendipity struck when I saw all three work together last month at a Cooks for Books event, creating pastries in honor of dessert goddess Alice Medrich.

I suggest seeking out their food because I predict all three will take us to some delicious places. Get a seat at the table while you still can.

I gave Veil restaurant a lukewarm review last year, but the news that Cree (nee Bickford) signed on as pastry chef makes me champ at the bit to try it anew. Cree -- whose training includes the Fat Duck, WD-50 and Lampreia -- applies pure heart, analytical curiosity and extreme talent to her delicious and original desserts. If you can't taste them firsthand at Veil (555 Aloha St.), Cree's thoughts on developing recipes and working in the restaurant industry can be found on tastingmenu.org.

Robertson just returned to town after an intense course of study at the French Pastry School in Chicago, followed by stints at some of the fanciest kitchens in Las Vegas (and that's saying a lot) -- Bellagio, Joel Robuchon at the Mansion and Restaurant Guy Savoy. Robertson recently won the job of first pastry chef at Canlis (2576 Aurora Ave. N.).

 robertson
 ZoomGilbert W. Arias / P-I
 Back in town after studying at the French Pastry School in Chicago, Neil Robertson landed a coveted job as first pastry chef at Canlis.

"We scoured the country, and interviewed folks from all over, and it's a pretty intense process," said Mark Canlis.

"And we really liked what we saw." Look for Robertson's original creations on the Canlis menu in months to come.

Look anywhere in the Seattle food scene, and Yee's name pops up. The multitalented self-taught cook might be cooking at Cache, the private dinner club where she's a co-host, with features such as a "Praise the Lard" dinner that includes crunchy crepinettes on potato galette and chive creme fraiche, and a dessert of homemade bacon brittle maple ice cream. Her prosciutto took first prize at Salumi's salami contest -- the first time she had tried curing meat -- and she writes about food for Seattle magazines. If there's such a thing as a Renaissance food geek, she's it.

At the Cooks and Books event, the three chefs created or adapted dishes from Alice Medrich's new book, "Pure Dessert" (Artisan, $35). Here's the recipe for Sour Cream Ice Cream, which Robertson served in little cones.


SOUR CREAM ICE CREAM
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

  • 2 cups sour cream
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup whole milk

Put sour cream in a medium bowl and set aside.

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar, cornstarch and salt. Whisk in a little of the milk until smooth, then whisk in the remaining milk. Whisk constantly over medium heat until the mixture is warm and foamy. Continue to whisk as the foam subsides and the mixture thickens and begins to boil. Whisking and scraping the bottom and sides of the pan constantly to prevent scorching, boil steadily but not furiously 1 1/2-2 minutes, or until the mixture thins slightly and becomes a bit more translucent. It is important to cook the base adequately or you will taste and feel the raw cornstarch on your palate and the flavor of the sour cream in the finished ice cream will not be clear and bright.

Remove the pan from the stove and whisk for a few seconds to release some heat. A little at a time, whisk the hot mixture into the sour cream. Let cool, then cover tightly and refrigerate, covered, until thoroughly chilled, at least 4 but preferably 12 hours.

For an extra-cold start, put the mixture in the freezer for 20 minutes, stirring once or twice to prevent freezing.

Freeze the ice cream according to the instructions for your ice cream machine. Serve, or pack into an airtight container and freeze. If it sits in the freezer for several hours, it will be too hard to scoop. Soften it slightly by transferring the container to the refrigerator for a few minutes until serving, or microwave on low or on the defrost setting for a few seconds at a time until scoopable.

P-I food writer Rebekah Denn can be reached at 206-448-8117 or rebekahdenn@seattlepi.com.
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