On Dining: Time will tell if Barrio's name keeps it from striking it big

By LESLIE KELLY
SPECIAL TO THE P-I

Larry Kurofsky already was having doubts about naming his new venture Barrio when I called to ask, "What were you thinking?"

The president of the Purple Cafe and Wine Bar ventures didn't even let me get the question out before asking my opinion. He had been taken aback by some virulent reaction among bloggers who wondered why a restaurant would go with a name that had such negative connotations.

"I don't take these things lightly," he said. "After seeing the initial reaction, I took a step back, rethought things through."

But, in the end, Kurofsky is standing by Barrio, which is supposed to open on the ground level of Trace Lofts on Capitol Hill in late spring.

"I believe in the name," Kurofsky said. "It's a beautiful word, especially in light of our location in a neighborhood."

"Barrio" is Spanish for area or district, somewhat analogous to the arrondissements in Paris. Still, the name conjures images of the hood, especially for anyone who has spent time in Los Angeles.

"I realize that it can mean ghetto. It's not that I'm trying to fight that," Kurofsky said. "We want to be part of the neighborhood. I'm extremely confident in what we're going to put together and deliver."

In doing research for this new restaurant, which will serve regionally focused south-of-the-border fare, Kurofsky recently traveled to Mexico City, where he dined in various barrios. He also visited one of this country's premier regional Mexican restaurants, Rick Bayless' Frontera Grill, in Chicago.

Who knows? If the new restaurant is a big hit, Kurofsky said it's possible you might one day find a Barrio in your neighborhood.

Dine around

It's time for Dine Around Seattle (formerly known as "25 for $25," and not to be confused with New Urban Eats). This twice-yearly eating event has run every November and March for seven years, tempting diners to try venues that might otherwise be out of their price range. Three-course dinners are $30; a handful of restaurants also offer a three-course lunch for $15.

To check out the lineup, log on to dinearoundseattle.org. The newest addition to the list is Steelhead Diner (95 Pine St.), which replaces Cascadia (2328 First Ave.).

Cascadia's Kerry Sear said he has added a $40 prix fixe option as a permanent part of his menu. Selections change monthly; featured entrees for February include braised short ribs or monkfish cheeks in a lemongrass broth.

Is Sear on to something?

Take off!

I love the sound of this high-flying promotion offered by McCormick & Schmick's Harborside (1200 Westlake Ave. N.) and Kenmore Air: a 20-minute aerial tour of the city followed by dinner.

The offer was launched as part of Valentine's Day, but it has been extended through the end of the month. For $189, thrill-seeking couples can climb into the seaplanes on South Lake Union and cruise over the city's landmarks. Then it's on to a dinner of sparkling wine, salad, entree and dessert. Tax and tip are extra. For reservations, call 866-435-9524.

Studio 1000

BOKA Kitchen + Bar has a saucy little sister. Studio 1000, a lounge in Hotel 1000 (1000 First Ave.), opened late last year in a space that features a futuristic fire pit where flames appear to be floating midair.

This cozy studio serves a selection of appetizers including seasonally focused plates, various charcuterie and regional cheeses. BOKA's full menu is also available in the lounge.

Studio 1000's happy hour runs weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m. Local neo-Flamenco guitarist Andre Feriante appears Friday and Saturday nights from 8 to midnight.

NOLA chow

Marcela's Cookery (106 James St.) opened last week near Pioneer Square. The affable owner is Hurricane Katrina transplant Anthony McDonald, who introduces himself to diners and serves up some real Southern hospitality.

A lunch of Marcela's fantastic fried shrimp po' boy and a sampling of a muffaletta sure tasted like the real deal. The midday menu includes gumbo, red beans and rice (which would be better with andouille sausage) and jambalaya. Prices range from $5 to $12 at lunch, $8.50 to $42 at dinner, when the casual space gets dressed in white linens.

McDonald and his partner, Marcela Fuenzalida, retained the services of the chef employed by the former tenant, Pastiamo. McDonald said his biggest challenge hasn't been teaching the chef to move from Italian to Creole and Cajun-style cooking, but finding the right bread for his sandwiches.

"I'm using ciabatta for the muffaletta," he said. "I had never even heard of ciabatta before moving here."

For the uninitiated, a muffaletta is a sandwich that starts out the size of a layer cake and is cut into wedges. The distinguishing characteristic of this New Orleans-style hero is an olive salad, and Marcela's hits the right briny note.

If they'd only bring in some Zap's potato chips, I might weep salty tears of joy.