Wine Pick Of The Week: Mercer Estate 2007 Columbia Valley Pinot Gris ($14)

Mike Hogue is back in the wine business.

Hogue is the founder of Hogue Cellars winery, which opened in 1982, making it one of the most venerable of all Washington wineries. It also is one of the largest in the state, ranking just below the likes of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest.

Hogue and his family were, and still are, farmers first. They grew hops, mint and table grapes among other crops when Hogue decided he might like to grow wine grapes and open a winery. The winery was a hit from the start, winning more than its share of medals and accolades. Then, in 2001 Mike cashed in, selling his winery for many millions of dollars. (When asked by a wine writer what he was going to do with all that money he responded in his typical self-effacing way by saying, "I guess I'll just keep on farming until it's all gone.")

A few years ago he was prodded by his daughter and son-in-law to start another wine venture. The idea led to the partnering with grape-growing legend Bud Mercer (who planted the original vines on what would later be known as Champoux Vineyard), Mercer's son and daughter-in-law and winemaker David Forsyth, the talented grapesmith who helped make the Hogue name.

The new vineyard and winery operation in Prosser is called Mercer Estate (the Hogue name is still taken) and it has been getting plenty of buzz in a region that should by now be jaded to the opening of yet another winery.

I liked all the wines I tasted from Mercer but was particularly impressed with the '07 pinot gris. I found it just dripping with fresh fruit flavors that reminded me of white peaches, melons and honeysuckle. Its dry mineral finish made me want another sip. Maybe it was the tease of spring we had last week when I tried the wine, but this would be a great choice to serve on a warm day. Until then you may want to try it with crab cakes, Thai food or a pan-seared pork chop.

To find the wine contact Noble Wines at 206-326-5274.

-- Richard Kinssies