Don't like spice? Szechuan Bean Flower can go both ways with its 100-plus dishes

The spicing at Szechuan Bean Flower is less aggressive than at many Szechuanese restaurants, with fewer dark red chiles and fiery peppercorns (unless you ask), but there's plenty to like about this newcomer to North Seattle owned by chef Yuejin Zheng.

The space is casual, with booths and a few round tables for larger parties, and there's parking in the back -- a plus, since the restaurant is right on Aurora Avenue North. (On the downside: a dingy floor and bathrooms.)

The menu is huge, with the kitchen turning out more than 100 dishes. Some of them aren't Szechuanese, such as honey walnuts with shrimp, anything in the moo shu family, or the rather boring beef chow fun in a lackluster gravy.

		Grant M. Haller / P-I
	Among crowd pleasers at Szechuan Bean Flower are the smoking pork with garlic leaves, foreground, and tofu with eggplant in garlic sauce. Hot and sour soup is on the left.

Americans have come to expect that kind of pan-Chinese variety from a menu, said server Ben Zheng.

As in other Chinese restaurants, some dishes are found only on the Chinese menu, or made at the request of patrons. Ben Zheng said the kitchen is cautious with spice, unless they know diners like it hot.

Starters range from $4.50 to $8.95 and main dishes start at $5.95 and run up to $15 for the seafood hot pot. There are lots of lunch specials, too.

Tofu with eggplant was delicious, slathered with garlicky sauce and packing a fair amount of heat.

Smoking pork with garlic leaves was another serious crowd pleaser. The pork was deeply smoky and had little bits of fat on it, enhancing the flavors, and the aroma and taste of garlic was intense throughout.

We also loved the Chongqing spicy chicken in a dark, assertive but not over-fiery sauce. We enjoyed the pan-fried cake with green onion, although it had a little less onion flavor than some.

Hand-shaved noodles (not a Szechuanese specialty) were less fetching. There was a generous portion of the toothsome noodles, but hardly any vegetables with them, and not much character in the sauce.

There's plenty more I look forward to trying, including the cumin lamb homestyle, hot and spicy beef stew, fish with bean curd, and hot braised prawns.

The restaurant also offers several family-style banquet menus, and free delivery on orders over $20.