FareStart's upgraded ambience and great food make it destination worthy for lunch

FareStart Restaurant, begun 15 years ago to train homeless people as culinary professionals, moved just five blocks north in January 2007, but what a world of difference its gorgeous dining room makes. The lunch menu has been tweaked and weekly guest-chef nights feature a three-course meal for $24.95.

The lovely space features tall ceilings, brick walls, huge picture windows, thick wood pillars, black tables, a tall communal table and a mezzanine dining area. Plus, there's a large window to watch students at work in the kitchen.

At prices ranging from $6.25 (house or Caesar salads) to $14.95 (seared scallops), FareStart's lunch is pricier than many a cheap eat. But the food and ambience are superior to places at similar price points, making FareStart destination-worthy and often packed for good reason.

		PAUL JOSEPH BROWN / P-I
	The flatiron steak ($11.25) is served on a bed of garlicky chard with crisp onion rings. The goat cheese crostini with chutney (background) is a good starter.

A goat cheese crostini starter was incredibly creamy and perfectly set off by a lovely fig chutney with nuts, and a small pile of greens. The flatiron steak ($11.25) was lovingly seasoned and grilled to order, served with a delicious bed of garlicky chard and two crisp onion rings.

A Field Roast sandwich ($7.95) was surprisingly sweet (because of a fig mayo), but the vegetarian patty paired well with Como bread and mustard. It came with a choice of french fries, onion rings, salad or soup. My dining pal went with the tomato basil soup, a pleasant, creamy rendition with mild basil notes.

We also thoroughly enjoyed a brownie topped with a creamy pomegranate ice cream and chocolate sauce ($4.95), even though the cold stuff tasted more of cherry than pomegranate.

The well-rounded lunch menu -- salads, sandwiches, soups, starters and entrees -- is supplemented by tempting weekly specials. One recent option, a chicken salad sandwich ($8.95), was souped up by thin slices of brie and apple, and cranberry sauce.

Fish and chips ($7.95) are a good choice too, with two hunks of light battered, not too oily, cod. The shoestring fries were crisp and salty good. Too bad the creme brulee was average, though generously sized.

FareStart does to-go lunch orders and recommends reservations for parties of five or more. It's a taste-good, feel-good place to dine -- the proceeds from lunch go back to its training programs, as do servers' lunch tips.