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Friday, October 25, 2002

Cheap Eats: Kauai Family Restaurant

With its Hawaiian music, posters of Kauai and friendly welcoming atmosphere, Kauai Family Restaurant is a sweet little joint. On a side street in south Seattle's Georgetown neighborhood, this casual eatery serves Hawaiian specialties to those missing a taste of the islands.

Personally, I'm a sucker for the Hawaiian-style plate. It's the "mac sal" that seduces me -- along with the sheer decadence of teaming creamy (non-sweet) macaroni salad with a rounded scoop of steamed rice on the same plate.

My favorite Hawaiian-style plate here is the Combination Lau Lau/Kalua Pork/Lomi Salmon ($11), or, when I have less appetite and ambition, the Kalua Pork with Cabbage ($6.75). Kauai Family Restaurant makes its lau lau with beef or pork and some salted fish, wraps it in taro and ti leaves and steams the package overnight. Its Kalua pork is tender shredded pork, served with or without equally tender cooked cabbage. Lomi salmon, meanwhile, is a near-condiment: salt salmon massaged into bits, mixed with chopped tomatoes and onions and served chilled.

Breakfast is served all day. For the hearty Hawaiian appetite, there's the beloved Loco Moco ($4), hamburger patty, rice, fried egg, gravy in a bowl, or a larger version (hamburger steak with two eggs, rice and gravy) for $5.75.

Kauai Family Restaurant, 6324 Sixth Ave. S., 206-762-3469. Open 9:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday; 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. (takeout only from 5-6 p.m.)Thursday and Friday; 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday.

-- Penelope Corcoran

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