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Ask the Critic: Wanting it in the wurst way
Friday, February 2, 2001
Q: Can you tell me any good local German restaurants?
A: For years in Seattle, the big hotels and establishment restaurants like Rosellini's 410 had German and Swiss chefs. Chef's Association meetings were rife with Germanic rivalries and anti-French cabals. Despite that, German restaurants have always been hard to find here and never as authentic as in Vancouver, B.C., with its large German population. Seattleites, in their quest for the best wurst, had to drive to Leavenworth -- suffering the kitsch and braving the snow. The alarming rumors that Axis, the toney Belltown eatery was a German-Italian-Japanese fusion place that might invade local Polish restaurants proved apocryphal when they opened serving banana cream pie.
But pull up your dirndls and strap on your lederhosen, kinder! Suddenly we're covered on the sauerkraut front. The People's Pub (5429 Ballard Ave. N.W.) is an easygoing, nicely refurbished, hoping-to-be-a-hangout in old Ballard. Though I wish they'd warm up their potato salad, they do a good job on the Wiener schnitzel (breaded veal cutlet) and even serve a Champignon schnitzel (breaded mushroom cutlet) in case you thought you could get away from the inevitable portabella mushroom. King Ludwig's Tyrol Restaurant in Maple Leaf (8501 Fifth Ave. N.E.) is more upscale with Hungarian, German and Austrian dishes, a great selection of Hungarian wines and Johnny V plays polkas on the squeeze box weekends. Menu tip: try the rotisseried broiled pork hock with spaetzle. Prosit!
--Michael Hood
Have a question? Call 206-448-8133, e-mail askthecritic@seattle-pi.com, write Ask the Critic, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, 101 Elliott Ave. W., Seattle, WA 98119-4220. Answers to selected questions will be used in future columns.
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