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Preparing whole fish is well worth the effort
Wednesday, March 8, 2000
By HSIAO-CHING CHOU
Fresh fish deserves to be left whole because it simply tastes better.
Leaving the head, tail, skin and bones intact keeps the moisture in the flesh, intensifying the natural flavor of the fish.
A food philosopher may add that it's also about eating something that looks like what it is.
So, bury that squeamishness and don't think of it as seeing a fish corpse on a platter. A whole fish steamed, poached, baked, grilled, fried or braised is perfection.
"It's something that when you start eating, you can't stop," says Don Curtiss, the chef at Prego Ristorante. "I eat every bit of the meat off the bones: the cheeks, the very end of the tail -- all the stuff that has all the flavor."
Curtiss, who has been a fisherman for as long as he can remember, prefers to fry whole fish, especially smelt or rainbow trout.
"Flour them, fry them and eat them," he says.
Frying is ideal for smaller whole fish. If the flesh is thick, you will need to make cuts on both sides of the fish to help it cook more thoroughly.
To prepare the fish for frying, you can soak it in salted milk, then dredge in flour. The other option is to dust the fish with flour, then dip in beaten eggs before coating with bread crumbs or cornmeal.
For a twist, try using Japanese panko, which are coarser bread crumbs that create a nicely textured crust. You can buy panko in Asian markets and some local grocers. I found it at the new Central Market in Shoreline.
You can use any number of fats to fry fish, but olive oil is good because it has a high smoke point. The oil needs to be hot to seal the juices inside the fish.
The amount of oil you use depends on the size and number of fish. You do want enough oil to immerse the fish.
Generally, with any cooking method, when the fish reaches an internal temperature of 140 degrees, it's done.
Curtiss also likes to cook fish in parchment paper. You may have seen this described on menus as en papillote, which in French refers to fish baked in a parchment pouch.
The pouch traps the steam, so when you slit it open at the table, the steam shoots out in a dramatic puff. Foil packets perform similarly.
Toss in the pouches some baby vegetables or citrus slices and fresh herbs to steam with the fish for a complete entree.
Garlic, red pepper flakes, lemon, black pepper, wine and butter mingle in Curtiss' recipe for striped bass baked in parchment.
"It's a fabulous presentation," he says. "Whole fish look like they're a challenge, but the flavor is worth the challenge."
Harry Yoshimura, who runs Mutual Fish on Rainier Avenue, understands that it may daunt some people to serve whole fish.
"Some people don't want to take the time to prepare whole fish," Yoshimura says, "but it's inexpensive to do and after you use the meat, you can use the bones for stock."
The 1- to 2-pounders are good for individuals. The larger fish are suitable for serving family style.
Because of the variety, fish can be as versatile as chicken, Yoshimura adds. "Some have firm meat, some soft, others are 'fishier.' If it's fishier, you would braise it or grill it. If it's a lighter meat, you steam it. It just depends on the person."
One way to steam fish is to use a salt oven.
You create a bed of rock salt in a foil-lined baking dish. Then, you add a layer of fresh herbs, fresh seaweed or grape leaves, the fish and another layer of herbs, seaweed or grape leaves. Finally, cover the entire stack with rock salt.
Depending on the size of the fish, baking time is 20 to 30 minutes. The salt oven locks in the moisture, so you get succulent flesh with a hint of flavor from the herbs or leaves, which prevent the salt from sticking to the skin.
Keeping the flavors clean is the best way to serve fish, says Yoshimura.
"You don't want to overseason and mask the true taste of the fish," he says.
Generally, a fish that's in season is a good bet. Yoshimura recommends yellow-eye or tai snapper, striped bass, tilapia, catfish.
"Sole is good whole, too," he says. "The texture is good, the flavor is mellow. You can fry it until it's crispy, poach it or bake it."
Yoshimura believes serving fish whole is the best way to eat because "when you get down to the bone, the meat is real good -- it's like steak."
Some recipes for cooking with a whole fish:
Fried Fish in Ginger Sweet and Sour Fish Sauce
Wash fish, inside and out, with salted water. Drain and dry.
Using a sharp knife, make shallow diagonal slashes on both surfaces of fish.
Mix flour, garlic, salt and pepper, and coat fish evenly on both sides.
In a non-stick frying pan, heat oil over medium heat. Gently slide fish into hot oil and fry until golden brown, turning once, until the meat is bright white and flakes easily.
Remove fish from oil and place on paper towel to drain.
To serve: Place fish on a serving platter and garnish with watercress or lettuce.
Serves four.
From "The Vietnamese Cookbook" by Diana My Tran (Capital Books, 119 pages, $25)
Sweet and Sour Fish Sauce
In a small bowl, mix garlic, sugar, citrus juice, water and fish sauce until the sugar is completely dissolved. Stir in ground red chili pepper, if you like it spicy.
Makes 1 cup.
Striped Bass Baked in Parchment
Preheat oven to 500 degrees.
In the center of one sheet of parchment paper on a large baking tray, spread out half of the lemon slices. Sprinkle on salt and pepper. Spread 2 tablespoons of chopped garlic evenly on the lemon slices. Place 5 whole garlic cloves in the cavity of each fish and season with salt and pepper.
Lay the fish on the lemon slices. Season with salt and pepper and spread 1 tablespoon of chopped garlic on each fish. Sprinkle on chili flakes. Cover with remaining lemon slices.
Pour the white wine over the fish and put 1 tablespoon of butter on each fish. Cover with the second parchment sheet. Line up the edges. Fold in one corner and start making small folds at 45-degree angles around the fish until a pouch is formed.
Tuck in the tail of parchment paper or staple it shut. You want a tight seal so the liquid doesn't escape.
Brush the outside with oil to keep the paper from charring. Bake until the pouch puffs up and turns slightly brown.
Slide the pouch on a platter and serve immediately. Cut open the pouch at the table. You can fillet the fish or eat it family style.
Serves four.
From chef Don Curtiss of Prego Ristorante
Snapper Baked in Salt
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Set the snapper on a work surface. In a small bowl, mix together the pepper, cumin and cayenne; sprinkle over, but don't coat, both sides of the fish.
Spread a layer of salt about 3/4-inch thick on a foil-lined baking pan. Put a layer of grape leaves down the center and set the fish on top of the leaves; cover the fish with the remaining grape leaves and cover completely with salt.
Bake for about 20 to 30 minutes, testing with a thermometer and removing the fish from the oven when the internal temperature is about 130 degrees. Let the fish sit for 5 to 10 minutes, during which time its temperature will rise a few degrees as it continues to cook in its salt oven.
Carefully extract the fish and serve with lemon wedges.
Note: If using brined grape leaves, make sure to rinse them under running water and dry them before using.
Serves two.
From "Salt & Pepper" by Michele Anna Jordan (Broadway Books, 256 pages, $25)
P-I Food Writer Hsiao-Ching Chou can be reached at 206-448-8117 or hsiaochingchou@seattle-pi.com
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