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May 7, 1998

Photo of roaring river

Rail history, nature unite an Old Robe Historic Trail

By KAREN SYKES [Bio]
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

Spring is a good time to visit the Old Robe Historic Trail, also known as the Monte Cristo railroad grade, built in 1893. The trail traces the route of the old railroad that once played a vital role in the mining history of the area, when trains carried ore from Monte Cristo to Everett. It's now part of the Robe Canyon Historical Park, recently acquired by Snohomish County Parks and Recreation.

This trail, which will be crowded in summer, is especially attractive now, lush with wildflowers and the sweet scent of alder. You'll see bleeding hearts, yellow violets, false lily of the valley, youth-on-age, salmonberry and the rank but elegant skunk cabbage.

Several interesting features of the railroad grade remain, such as the tunnels -- probably the high point of the hike for many. Railroad buffs will also enjoy hiking the section of trail where the railroad line was blasted into the rock and into which slots were cut to hold the railroad ties. Close by is the South Fork Stillaguamish River, boiling through the narrow canyon, booming against enormous boulders. A few pieces of old timber and spikes remain. One railroad tie hangs out over the river with a small alder tree growing out of its end.

Keeping the track open was almost impossible because of the topography of the canyon and winter storms. Landslides closed the railroad line several times during the mining era, but it was kept open during the 1920s for tourists, until a flood closed it permanently in 1930. In 1936 the track was dismantled.

Hikers can get a feel for what the railroad crews endured in this wet, unstable environment.

Two landslides in 1995 further damaged the trail. The first is situated before Tunnel No. 6 and can be crossed by experienced hikers, but both hands will be required for balance. Children shouldn't cross. The other slide, just past Tunnel No. 5, has closed the trail beyond..

Photo of cave mouth 
Bring a flashlight. Though the tunnels are not in total darkness, rocks have fallen from the ceiling and litter the floor, so watch your step. Repairs to the trail are planned and you'll be able to hike farther along the railroad grade in the future.

Experienced scramblers have located the 900-foot-long "Kissing Tunnel" (Tunnel No. 11) farther downriver, but this is not recommended for hikers.

This tunnel got its name from the days when the railroad ran an excursion line for tourists. According to legend, a combination of mineral water and a magnetic belt of iron within the tunnel aroused passionamong the passengers, and the tunnel was long enough that sweethearts could indulge in long kisses before emerging at the other end.

Seeking this tunnel is a venture best left to experts with cross-country scrambling skills. Since there is no established route, slipping and sliding down an unstable hillside is the only possible approach.

Though the trail is now owned and managed by Snohomish County Parks and Recreation, heavy rains and landslides rewrite the topography each year, so keeping the trail open will be an ongoing process. Nature seems determined to take this canyon back.

Robe Canyon Historical Park is still in its planning phase and a completion date has not been set. Enhancements and additions to the park are also in the works. Another access point to the railroad grade is being determined.

Map Getting there
Drive the Mountain Loop Highway east from Granite Falls 7 miles to the top of a long hill. On your left is Forest Service Road 41 and on the right is parking for the Old Robe Historic Trail, elevation 1,000 feet.

Trail detail
The trail begins by wandering through a clearcut with views down to an alluvial terrace. Rebuilt in 1996 by volunteers, the route switchbacks down to the railroad grade. This section replaces the original trail built by a Lake Stevens Boy Scout troop several years ago. The troop has worked on the trail for many years.

The trail is level and easy to follow until it meets the river. Then the fun begins. At 1.2 miles the river becomes wild where the old railroad route was engineered through the canyon. This is where the rock was chiseled out to hold the railroad ties. Tunnel No. 6 is at 1.4 miles and Tunnel No. 5 at 1.7 miles, the end of the maintained trail.

Tunnel No. 4 beyond the landslide was removed by the railroad company and is now a cut with a rock slide at the western end. Beyond is a rock retaining wall built up from the river to support the railway, but the area has eroded, leaving a steep, exposed gully without good handholds. Just beyond the retaining wall is Tunnel No. 3, which is unsafe to enter.

Tunnel No. 2 was through-cut in 1911 in an attempt to solve the problem of slides blocking the tunnel entrances.

Trail data
3.4 miles round trip from trailhead to Tunnel No. 5. For information or updates on the progress of the new park, call Snohomish County Parks and Recreation, 425-339-1208. If you would like to volunteer to work on the trail, call Steve Dean at 360-652-7181. Trails such as these would not exist without the work of dedicated volunteers. Much of the work will be done by volunteers and some materials must be carried in by hand.

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