Vastness of Yakima's Skyline Trail reminds hikers of Montana country

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NWsource

May 29, 1997

Vastness of Yakima's Skyline Trail reminds hikers of Montana country

By KAREN SYKES
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

You don't have to drive as far as Montana to experience "big sky." If you don't mind an early start and drive to Eastern Washington, you can take the Yakima Skyline Trail, an easy or strenuous walk depending on how far you go.

There are three trailheads, but the lower, southern route is the best approach for spring. The high point of the ridge is 3,000 feet and you may be graced with the presence of elk, deer or bighorn sheep as they move about the slopes.

This is a fine hike in spring when wildflowers go crazy.

I've hiked this trail several times over the years and once as a backpacker. Each time I am newly surprised at the vastness of the place -- the big sky, the rolling hills, the Yakima River, the darting meadowlarks in spring, and the smell of sage.

This is where the eagle soars and the clouds move quickly, changing the skies from gun-metal gray to robin's-egg blue, sometimes in mere minutes. This is where the coyotes sing in E Minor on cold nights and the stars are as big as cabbages. Watch a storm march deliberately toward you then veer off at the last moment.

Gear up against sudden squalls and then relax as the sun breaks up the black clouds and a sweet breeze moves over the land.

Time is different here -- it slows down, and you might forget what time it is when you sit in the sagebrush on lichen-splashed stones watching the Yakima roll on below, a footnote to the Missoula floods 15 millenniums ago.

Getting there
The most challenging part of the hike is finding the trailheads. It's best to take maps, an atlas and not be afraid to ask directions. The U.S. Geological Survey maps are Badger Pocket, Ellensburg, Yakima East and Selah.

Drive east on Interstate 90 and take Exit 109. Drive Canyon Road (state Route821) to the Selah exit (through the Yakima Canyon). Drive Harrison Road 1.9 miles southwest, turn right on Wenas Road (2.8 miles), to a fire station and a "Y" in the road. Go right (straight ahead) three-tenths of a mile on Gibson Road and turn right on Buffalo Road. Pavement ends and the L.T. Murray Wildlife Recreation Area begins.

At 2.7 miles from Gibson Road, the south trailhead camp is reached. The road descends another tenth of a mile to the trailhead at 1,300 feet. Don't blame me if you get it wrong the first time. This place is hard to find.

Trail detail
The trail begins at 1,300 feet and is well-marked by trail-marking posts, which guide the way to the rim of the canyon.

The trail follows along the canyon rim as it climbs, reaching one "false" summit after another until Peak 2737 is reached. Look down to Roza Dam and Canyon Road below.

The trail drops to a saddle, climbing and dropping again to Twin Springs at 2,525 feet. There are two water tanks located here that may contain drinkable water. From Twin Springs, the trail resumes climbing to its high point (3,000 feet) but you may be stomping through snow.

From the high point, the trail descends to Roza Creek, but the high point makes a good place to turn around. Find a wind-protected nook in the rocks and listen to the void. Later in the year backpackers hike the trail from end to end. (It is 15 miles one way) but many hikers are content to do only part of this trail.

Though the trail is not maintained by the Department of Fish and Wildlife (due to a reported lack of funds, not indifference) it is in good condition. It was built to last. The guideposts are visible from great distances, and when grass obscures the trail, the naked eye can easily find the way.

Families with children will probably want to hike only a mile or two -- fortunately the views can be enjoyed from almost any point along the trail. Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes. Also watch out for ticks and carry drinking water. The only fresh water available is at Birdsong Springs, too far away for a day hike.

Trail data
Round trip to Roza Valley overlook is 8.5 miles. Elevation gain, including ups and downs, is 2,400 feet. Refer to "55 Hikes in Central Washington" by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning (The Mountaineers, 160 pages, $12.95).