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June 22, 2000

Chiwaukum Creek Trail beckons time and again

By KAREN SYKES [Bio]
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

If there was ever a trail that deserves more than one visit, Chiwaukum Creek is it. One trip won't be enough to experience one of the supreme flower walks in the Wenatchee Mountains.

Later in summer, this long valley trail leads to prime alpine country. Today, most of the trail is included in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, but the loggers got there first, coming down from McCue Ridge and logging old-growth ponderosa pines. Fortunately the logged area is recovering and the stumps are obscured by new growth and flowering shrubs.

  Chiwaukum Creek
  Fueled by snowmelt, Chiwaukum Creek races over boulders along the Chiwaukum Creek Trail. The long valley route is renowned for its wildflowers and eventually leads to Alpine Lakes high country. Karen Sykes / Special to the P-I
In the early 1980s you could drive to the trailhead and start hiking. Private ownership has changed all that, closing the road to public vehicles. The trailhead has been moved and hikers must walk the access road, a mixed blessing.

The extra miles may keep crowds away, but some of us who hiked the trail before walking the road became mandatory feel somewhat resentful. Despite our grumbling, we will continue to hike the road to access this trail. Anyone who has ever camped in Timothy Meadows will know what I am talking about. Walking the road is worth it.

And yet, even walking the road has its pleasures, such as the peach-colored blooms of Tweedy's Lewisia blooming on the dry rocky slopes above Chiwaukum Creek. Forget the gated private road -- focus instead on the magic of the flowers and you will soon forget the ills of civilization.

The trees have grown taller since my visit years ago, but the river hasn't changed -- it is still fresh and green and races over the boulders as if it were enjoying itself. Side paths descend to potential camping spots along the way as the trail follows Chiwaukum Creek.

At the beginning of the trail we saw Tweedy's Lewisia, lupine, Mertensia, Solomon's seal, twinflower, bead lily and, further up the trail, where the snow had recently melted, early-season flowers such as trilliums and yellow violets.

We had planned to hike to a trail junction at 5-1/2 miles, where the Chiwaukum Creek Trail continues to Timothy Meadows and beyond to Ladies Pass following the South Fork of Chiwaukum Creek.

Timothy Meadows makes a fine camp three miles beyond the junction in a setting of tall grass and flowers. The meadow is framed in white aspen trees, making this one of the sweetest camps I've ever known. We didn't get there. The rain caught us and we turned around before reaching the junction.

Map Getting there
Drive U.S. Highway 2 (east) over Stevens Pass and just past milepost 89 (25 miles east of the pass) look for Chiwaukum Creek Road (No. 7908) and turn right. Drive a short distance to a junction and stay right. Continue into the parking area (less than half a mile) and trailhead at 1,800 feet.

Trail detail
Chiwaukum Creek Trail No. 1571 begins from the parking area at a gated road, elevation 1,800 feet. Hike the road 1 1/2 miles as it climbs to the trail's former starting point. The trail gently rises and falls through a profusion of flowers and rock gardens as it follows the creek.

At four miles the trail passes through a one-mile section that was logged before the area became part of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Old-growth forest is re-entered and the trail continues to a major junction at 5 1/2 miles (3,300 feet).

The junction is a tough decision for backpackers, who will have to choose between two superb trails -- to the right, the North Fork Chiwaukum Trail No. 1591 to Chiwaukum Lake and Larch Lake, or continue on toward Timothy Meadows and the high country of Ladies Pass.

Continuing on, the Chiwaukum Creek Trail comes to another junction at seven miles (the Painter Creek Trail). The trail continues to Timothy Meadows, eight miles from the trailhead (4,000 feet). Backpackers can continue to Lake Flora at 11 miles (5,700 feet), or another mile to Ladies Pass at 6,800 feet.

Trail data
Round trip from the trailhead to the Chiwaukum Lake/Larch Lake junction is 11 miles, with 1,500 feet elevation gain. To Timothy Meadows it's 16 miles round trip, with approximately 2,200 feet gain. The maps are Green Trails No. 178 Leavenworth and No. 177 Chiwaukum Mountains. Call the Leavenworth Ranger District for further information, 509-548-6977.

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