Warm weather opens the way for cool vistas of the Carbon Glacier

The Carbon River Trail is a family favorite, with children delighting in the suspension bridge above the river. But if the wobbling is too much for fainthearted adults, there is another approach to the Carbon Glacier. Karen Sykes / Special to the Post-Intelligencer

Warm weather opens the way for cool vistas of the Carbon Glacier

By KAREN SYKES
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

Summer is a good time to explore trails in the Carbon River area tucked away in the northwest corner of Mount Rainier National Park.

The rainfall is heavier at the Carbon River than elsewhere in the park, and the road is subject to washout. Hikers should take advantage of the trails when the road is open and bridges are in place across the glacier-fed river.

Many hikers are already hitting these trails as word has spread that the road is open and the snow is rapidly melting. Even in early June the parking lot was overflowing with cars by late afternoon.

This is a very popular hiking area -- if you want solitude, plan this hike during the week. If that's not possible, get an early start on a weekend.

As a family hike, the Carbon River Trail is a favorite. Children squeal with delight at the suspension bridge, which may cause the knees of many adults to knock as they walk across. I sat on the rocks across from the bridge, watching hikers negotiate the swinging bridge high above the river. Several adults looked uncomfortable, but the kids were having a great time.

My advice: Relax. The bridge is stronger than it looks and will hold several people. However, if the bridge is too spooky, there is another approach to the Carbon Glacier. You can cross the river farther downstream on the Northern Loop Trail, which branches to the left two miles from the trailhead.

The Carbon River Trail climbs through spectacular old growth on an old road before returning to the river again and views of Mount Rainier rising above the snout of the glacier. (The glacier may look like a pile of dirt to those who have never seen a glacier up close.)

From the river, the trail climbs to Carbon River Camp near Cataract Creek, which looks like it got hit by a landslide. It did. A major landslide destroyed several campsites. Mount Rainier National Park is clearing the campsites, and two were ready for use in early June. It's awesome to see the results of nature on a rampage -- old-growth trees were snapped in half like pencils, and root balls the size of SUVs blocked the path.

The suspension bridge is a short distance beyond the Carbon River camp. Hikers should fasten their walking sticks to their packs when crossing the bridge. They get stuck in the spaces between the planks. Also, you'll want your hands for balance.

Across the bridge, the trail climbs about a quarter of a mile to an overlook of the Carbon Glacier. This section of the route is set beneath a cliff -- in winter, when the cliffs are ice-bound, rockfall is common.

Signs advise hikers to stay off the glacier and away from the river. It is tempting to hike down to the mouth of the glacier, but it's also dangerous. Rockfall is common, water levels rise with warming temperatures, and cave-ins are a possibility.

Map Getting there
From the Y junction of SR 410 and Highway 165 near Buckley, drive highway 165 through Burnett, Wilkeson and across the Fairfax bridge to a junction with the Mowich Lake Road (10 miles from Buckley). Take the left fork -- the Carbon River Road -- and continue to the entrance of Mount Rainier National Park (18 miles from Buckley). Continue to Ipsut Creek campground about five miles beyond the entrance and Carbon River trailhead at 2,300 feet.

Trail detail
The Carbon River Trail starts from the upper end of the Ipsut Creek Campground. At 0.2 miles a side trail descends to a view of Ipsut Falls. At a quarter of a mile, the Wonderland Trail junction is reached. Stay left (on the Wonderland Trail).

The trail goes through old-growth forest and at 2.0 miles the Northern Loop junction is reached. To make a loop, turn left, cross the Carbon River on a footbridge, hike uphill to the Carbon Glacier (about 1.5 miles), re-cross the Carbon River on the suspension bridge, turn right and descend the Wonderland Trail back to the campground.

You also can do the loop in reverse (check with the rangers to see if the Northern Loop bridge is in place).

For a one-way hike, continue straight ahead at the Northern Loop junction as the Wonderland Trail climbs to the suspension bridge at 3.5 miles. Cross the suspension bridge, turn right and hike uphill a short distance for the views of the Carbon Glacier and Mount Rainier.

Trail data
From Ipsut Creek campground to the Carbon Glacier overlook it is seven miles round-trip, 1,300 feet elevation gain. For fees, road and trail information call Mount Rainier National Park at 360-569-2211.

Guidebooks on the trails of Mount Rainier are plentiful: "Mount Rainier National Park Tales, Trails and Auto Tours" by Jerry and Gisela Rohde (MountainHome Books, 310 pages, $17.95) or "Hiking Mount Rainier National Park" by Heidi Schneider and Mary Skjelset (Falcon Guide, 240 pages $14.95).

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