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Touring wineries easy on island loop
By HILDA ANDERSON
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER
AN EASY LOOP DRIVE from Seattle takes you to eight wineries and another special wine outlet in Western Washington -- on Bainbridge Island, the Olympic Peninsula and Whidbey Island. Follow the route, stopping for the night along the way, and you have the makings of a pleasant fall getaway.
In the last few weeks, we've visited most of these wineries. Typically, they are small places, producing a few thousand bottles a year. Most are tucked away on back roads with few signs to tell you how to get there. The winemaker will probably be on hand to greet you and pour you a glass of wine, answer questions and perhaps lead you on a personal tour of the facilities.
These wineries have formed the Winery Loop Association and produced a brochure that lists each of them, together with a map. Entitled "A Guide to the Wineries of the Olympic Peninsula and Puget Sound Islands," it's available on Washington state ferries, at chambers of commerce and the individual wineries.
Since this is a loop drive, you can go from Bainbridge Island to the Olympic Peninsula and then cross to Whidbey Island from Port Townsend or reverse the route. Whichever direction you go, your journey begins with a ferry ride, from Seattle to Bainbridge Island or from Mukilteo, north of Seattle, to Whidbey Island.
Bainbridge Island Vineyards and Winery: Gerard and JoAnn Bentryn, who started their winery just uphill from the Bainbridge Island ferry terminal 24 years ago, take great pride that their wines are made entirely from grapes they grow on the island. Every Sunday at 2 p.m., Gerard takes visitors into the vineyard and shows them how the grapes are grown. Offerings include pinot gris, Madeleine Angevine, Muller-Thurgau, Ferryboat White, Siegerrebe, pinot noir, strawberry wine and raspberry wine. Their annual production is 2,200 cases; prices range from $8.50 to $28.50. Hours: noon to 5 p.m., Wednesday-Sunday. 682 state Route 305, Bainbridge Island; 206-842-9463.
Lost Mountain Winery: Winemaking is a tradition in Steve Conca's family that started with his grandfather, Matteo, in the Lake Como region of Italy and continued when his father, Romeo, started Lost Mountain in a rural setting outside of Sequim in 1981. Steve and his wife, Sue, produce about 1,000 cases a year of mostly red wines, including Romeo's Blend from a family recipe, priced from $12 to $20. Timber from their 22 acres was used to construct the building that houses the tasting room. Hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday and Sunday. 3174 Lost Mountain Road, Sequim; 360-683-5229, www.lostmountain.com.
Olympic Cellars: Dan Caudill was the winemaker at Neuharth Winery in Sequim when a highway by-pass was planned that would cut through the winery. Since 1998, he has plied his craft at his winery on U.S. Route 101 in Port Angeles, nine miles west of Sequim. In the big, weathered-plank barn built in 1890, he produces 2,500 cases annually from grapes grown in Eastern Washington. Priced from $9.99 to $18.99, they include Lemberger, merlot, chardonnay, Johannisberg Riesling, Dungeness White and Dungeness Red. Hours: noon to 5:30 p.m., Wednesday-Sunday. 255410 Route 101, Port Angeles; 360-452-0160, www.olympiccellars.com.
Black Diamond Winery: Sharon and Lance Adams started out making wine for themselves on their 20-acre property in Port Angeles. Last year, they produced almost 400 cases -- rhubarb, strawberry rhubarb, plum, pinot gris and apricot -- priced from $8 to $11. They grow their own rhubarb and harvest plums from their Shiro Japanese plum tree. Next year, they will introduce red currant, loganberry and muscat Ottonel wines. Collectors of old cars, they have several Studebakers on the property. Hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday-Sunday or by appointment. 2976 Black Diamond Road, Port Angeles; 360-457-0748; http://pages.prodigy.net/sharonlance.
Camaraderie Cellars: Don and Vicki Corson's winery on the outskirts of Port Angeles is, according to Don (who has a doctorate in geography), the farthest northwest winery in the country. Starting out in 1992 with sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, they also produce merlot, cabernet franc and semillon. Their annual production is about 1,000 cases with cabernet sauvignon, their top-priced wine, selling for $18.50. Don says he hopes his philosophy that the best things in life are meant to be shared comes through in their wine. Hours: by appointment. 334 Benson Road, Port Angeles; 360-452-4964.
FairWinds Winery: Harry and Zoe Ann Dudley and Mike and Judy Cavett have been producing wine at their 10 acres on the outskirts of Port Townsend since 1993. Their distinctive label showing a square-rigger sailing ship is appropriate not only because of their location near the Victorian seaport but also because both men served in the Coast Guard. Using only hand-picked Washington grapes, they make Lemberger, Gewurztraminer, cabernet sauvignon and Aligote, a white Burgundy wine, which sell for $7.99 to $16. Production is about 1,000 cases a year. Hours: Thursday-Monday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 1984 Hastings Ave. W., Port Townsend; 360-385-6899; www.fairwindswinery.com.
Sorensen Cellars: Richard Sorensen released his first wine, a 1998 merlot, this year at his winery outside of Port Townsend. His main focus is on red wines -- merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc -- which sell for $22.50. He also produces a pinot gris for $12. Later this year Sorensen, whose entire operation takes place in one small room, will be moving into larger quarters with a separate tasting room. Hours: open on weekends but call ahead. 234-G Otto St., Port Townsend; 360-379-6416.
Whidbey Island Vineyards and Winery: Greg and Elizabeth Osenbach grow grapes on 7 acres on the south end of Whidbey Island. Half their wines are made from their own grapes, the rest from grapes bought in Eastern Washington. They use their own grapes to make Madeleine Angevine, Siegerrebe and Island White. They also make pinot gris, chardonnay, lemberger, merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon, in addition to wine made from rhubarb grown on the island. In business since 1991, they produce about 2,400 cases a year with prices ranging from $7.95 to $17.95. Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. 5237 S. Langley Road, Langley, on Whidbey Island; 360-221-2040.
Whidbey Island Greenbank Farm: The 522-acre berry farm is owned by the citizens of Island County, who bought it to prevent development of the historic property, once said to be the world's largest loganberry farm. The non-profit organization operates a wine and food gift shop specializing in local products. You can't watch the winemaking process because the wine bearing their label is made elsewhere. Executive director Shirley Hendricson told us that they are changing to a regional wine specialty shop featuring Puget Sound wines, starting with the wines of the Winery Loop Association. Hours: daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 765 E. Wonn Road, Greenbank, on Whidbey Island; 360-678-7700; www.greenbankfarm.com.
Lodging and restaurants: The Winery Loop Association has an excellent Web site that includes places to stay, restaurants, other attractions and picnic spots. Access it at www.wineryloop.com. Those without computer access can get information by contacting the local chambers of commerce on Bainbridge and Whidbey islands and at Port Townsend, Sequim and Port Angeles. Many of the restaurants serve these wines. You may also find them at some liquor stores, wine shops and supermarkets along the loop.
Events: On Dec. 2 and 3, there will be a Holiday Open House at all the wineries from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Some will have holiday sampler cases on sale, others will be releasing new wines and some will be serving light refreshments.
Spring barrel tasting is scheduled for May 19 and 20.
NEXT WEEK: Circus Magicus, the new exhibit at Victoria's Royal British Columbia Museum, opens as reduced, off-season lodging prices go into effect.
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moreHave questions about Northwest travel? Ask Hilda.
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