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Thursday, January 8, 2004
Short Trips: Odds of a great time at Ocean Shores are in your favor
By JEFF LARSEN
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER PHOTOGRAPHER
OCEAN SHORES -- It's often wet -- soaking might be more descriptive-- usually windy and sometimes wild as Pacific Ocean storms assault the 6,000-acre, relatively unprotected peninsula called Ocean Shores on the state's central coast. But the weather elements seem to add a special allure to one of the area's most popular year-round destinations.
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Ocean Shores didn't just spring up out of nowhere in the early '60s. The community was conceived as a combination destination resort and residential complex complete with all the trappings, such as a golf course and major hotels. Pat Boone, a popular entertainer back then, even had an interest in the overall Ocean Shores development. Early on, developers even tried unsuccessfully to transform Ocean Shores into a wide-open Las Vegas-style gambling destination.
The state didn't go for it.
Today Ocean Shores is the premier ocean vacation destination in Washington and boasts close to a thousand rooms, many of which are ocean-view, in a variety of hotel and condominium complexes that line the shore. Just recently the city broke ground on a new multimillion-dollar convention center near the golf course. Next spring the city expects to start work on an ambitious $20 million aquarium project.
The attraction of the area, which flanks the entrance to Grays Harbor north of Aberdeen and Hoquiam, is obvious. With more than six miles of flat, easily accessible ocean beaches and 23 miles of interconnected freshwater lakes and canals -- coupled with plenty of lodging and restaurant facilities -- it's easy for travelers to settle in for a true oceanfront experience.
Hotel rates generally are lower this time of year, especially during the week. Travelers either can check online or directly with the various hotels for special winter packages and discounts. The major chains such as Best Western, Shilo, Quality Inn, Comfort Inn, Days Inn and Holiday Inn Express, all have beachfront hotels at Ocean Shores.
The allure for travelers, of course, is mostly the ocean environment. It can be intoxicating as well as relaxing ... all in the same day. But almost four years ago the Quinault Indian Nation added another ingredient to the mix -- gambling.
In June 2000, the Quinault Nation completed its most ambitious project when it opened the Quinault Beach Resort and Casino a couple of miles north of Ocean Shores proper. With 16,000 square feet of gaming space, 159 rooms, restaurant and spa facilities, the resort/casino combination is truly a destination all its own at Ocean Shores.
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 | Jeff Larsen / P-I | |
| It's hard to miss the entrance to the Quinault Beach Resort and Casino, situated just north of town. | ||
The resort is one of 27 tribal casinos in the state that, combined, are projected to rake in more than $700 million in net receipts for 2003, according to the Washington State Gambling Commission. Tribal casino gaming accounts for 54 percent of the more than $1.3 billion in gambling revenue generated in the state, which has 29 federally recognized tribes.
Despite the resort's gaudy, electronic directional billboard -- so dramatically apparent just after you turn off state Route 109 heading toward Ocean Shores -- both of the entry portals to the casino complex have been tastefully designed with obvious nods to Native American heritage.
Drive slowly -- the half-mile-long entry road winds through some one of the most exquisite portions of protected wetlands in the region. It's not uncommon to spot deer grazing alongside the road or see a variety of waterfowl paddling through one of the nearby freshwater canals.
The four-story resort sits on a low promontory directly facing a wide expanse of beach with an unfettered view in all directions. Rather primitive motorhome parking (without hookups) is available adjacent to the main parking lot. Valet parking also is available at the main resort entrance.
With all the storms swirling around the Puget Sound region most of past week, the Quinault Beach Resort and Casino turned out to be a fun distraction. Comfort and fun under a roof, with an ocean at the ready when it stops raining, is a perfect combination.
From the resort lobby, the ocean beach is easily accessible by foot. The resort beachfront is far enough north of the busiest stretches of beach at Ocean Shores to offer a little bit of seclusion. All the other oceanfront hotels and condominiums are south of the resort.
The rooms are done in a pleasant mix of fall and natural colors with basic but substantial furnishings throughout. All rooms have 9-foot ceilings, gas fireplaces, refrigerators, high-speed Internet access, large-screen TVs, hair dryers and coffee makers (with two bags of regular grind). The resort also offers nine suites, ranging from 650 to 1,050 square feet, that have magnificent ocean views.
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| Jeff Larsen / P-I | |
| The Ocean Shores jetty near the southern end of the Ocean Shores peninsula is a popular spot to explore and, when the surf's up, enjoy a bracing salt-spray facial. | ||
If I wasn't mistaken, either a frustrated jogger or a small caged elephant inhabited the room above mine, judging by the level of noise and vibration I endured for part of the evening. I didn't have the nerve to go up and find out what was going on.
There are buffets -- and then there is Emily's Oceanfront Restaurant's Fantastic Seafood Feast buffet every Friday from 6 to 10 p.m. at the resort. All the prime rib, oysters, teriyaki salmon, halibut, lobster quiche, crawfish, Dungeness crab, prawns, stuffed avocados and a variety of salads you can eat for $24.95. The bartender told me that even though the buffet might seem a little pricey, he believed it was worth it because he could eat $25 worth of the Dungeness crab alone -- "no problem."
It's an extraordinary spread and, judging by the length of the line, a popular feature at the resort. Thursday night the restaurant features an all-you-can-eat prime rib spread for $14.95. Sorry I missed that one. One of the waiters told me the all-you-can-eat $17 Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., complete with champagne, is the best feed of the three buffets. That's hard to imagine.
I can't remember the last time I gambled. I think it was back in the late 1970s at Lake Tahoe, but I can't be sure. I am certain, however, no one ever told me gambling was like riding a bicycle -- that you never forget how.
The basic rudiments of blackjack -- also called twenty-one -- still were lodged in the back of my mind. I just needed to root out the fundamentals and then have enough confidence to be able to step up to one of the gaming tables at the resort's casino and expect to lose money.
My plan was to see how long I could gamble with $40 at a $5 minimum bet blackjack table -- betting conservatively, $5 or $10 at a time. After a stumbling start -- I didn't quite understand the little hand-gesture etiquette and was scolded by one of the dealers for touching a card -- my confidence grew along with my tiny stack of $5 chips.
Before I knew it, I was on a roll. My confidence continued to grow and I even learned how to "double down" when I had 11 showing. I also learned it was OK to moan every time the player next to me got the card I needed, even though I'm sure they thought it was annoying.
The casino itself was remarkably quiet for all the activity on the floor on a Friday night. The most noise came from the beeping electronic poker games and chatter from the craps tables and other games. Smoking is allowed anywhere on the casino floor, but I was pleasantly surprised at how well the ventilation system sucked out the smoke. I've been in upscale restaurant lounges in Seattle that were smokier.
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| Jeff Larsen / P-I | |
| Beachcombers hit the beach near the Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn, one of several major chain hotels along the shore. | ||
Two hours later my $40 was gone after I lost a $15 bet when I hit 12 with a face card and busted (a gambling term). For the most part, I enjoyed the two-hour adrenaline rush, and all the players and the dealers I met were courteous and helpful to a poor novice with only $40.
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