Kauai: Tourists can set their own pace -- and height -- for adventuring

Traveling with my 12-year-old is tricky. Camille's ideal vacation is plenty of action and adventure, while I like to strike a balance -- adventure peppered with leisure. Kauai turned out to be the perfect place for both of us. Our tack was to mosey around the island and dabble in adventure. Camille set her sights on surfing; I lobbied for loping around on horseback and snorkeling.

Kauai is too far north for great coral displays, but the fish don't mind. On the East Shore, Lihue boasts the best family-friendly beach for snorkeling -- Lydgate State Park.

"We'll never see a humuhumunukunukuapua'a here," grunted Camille, pulling on her mask. "This cove is covered with kids, not humus."

The humu, Hawaii's pig-nosed state fish, never surfaced, but the crescent-shape cove proved to be the perfect place to plunge and probe for disk-shaped kikakapus, (blue stripe butterflyfish), slender green-tipped weke'ula, (yellowfin goatfish) and fanned-shaped lau'pala (yellow tang). Kauai has numerous surfing beaches. We liked Hanalei Bay on the North Shore, the spot where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right out of her hair in "South Pacific" and home to Princeville and our surfing instructor, Micco.

Micco was the quintessential surfer -- amphibious, tan and lanky. He explained that surfing is an opportunity to practice ahonui, which translates as patience and perseverance. "Ahonui is the key to surfing," said Micco. We started our lesson on land. "Acquaint yourself with your board," advised Micco. "Shoot for the 'sweet spot' (middle) when you stand. Don't go too far forward, you'll flip over, and too far back isn't good either."

"That's easy enough," quipped Camille, prepped to pick up her board.

"Hold on," piped in Micco. "Waves move in sets; gauge the sets before paddling out. Paddle duck-style -- alternate arms, head lifted. Once out, turn the board about-face. When the wave swells under the belly of the board, paddle and bolt upright, and think ahonui."

It seemed doable, but on the first dry-land run, the programmed thinkers in the class were befuddled by the footwork.

"Don't think about it," Micco said. "One foot will naturally hop forward; the other foot will anchor the rear." And once you know your back foot, he added, it will be tethered to the board's leash, "so your board won't fly and pelt someone on the head."

Whistling "Surfin' Safari" with the confidence of a pro, I Velcroed my ankle to the leash, wadded through the breakers and bellyflopped onto my board. And that's were I stayed for the next hour.

The duck stroke proved challenging, but so did everything else. I rolled off my board like a slippery tuna. Once past the breakers, I couldn't turn my board and wiped out and washed ashore with the board still tethered to my leg.

"Try again," encouraged Micco, floating from person to person, waving encouragement.

"Yeah, I will," I said nursing a bruised ego.

Hey, Mama, hang 10," whooped Camille as she triumphantly stood up flashing me the shaka sign. "Surfing is awesome!"

We next stationed ourselves in Princeville for a few days. The well-watered North Shore is a grand spot to explore the lush interior on horseback. We saddled up at Silver Falls Ranch, a few minutes from Kilauea Point Lighthouse. Our paniolo (cowboy), Bruce, greeted us sporting chaps, a kukui nut lei and a lauhala papale, the traditional straw hat festooned with tropical flowers. As we mounted our horses, Bruce told us to never let go of the reins or swear at the horses. We trotted off and disappeared into a paradise of tropical plants and palms. As we made our way down the first of many muddy slopes, Bruce explained that the vaqueros came from California to Hawaii in 1800 to teach the art of handling cattle and horses. He said the Hawaiians expropriated the word panialo from the word Español.

Crisscrossing through blushing hibiscus bushes and a plethora of palms, we approached a waterfall. The horses picked up speed and stopped at a thatched hut. Dismounting, I noticed another group of horses and riders trotting away.

"Anybody famous?' I joked.

"Pierce Brosnan and his family," responded Bruce.

"James Bond!" squealed Camille, staring after the rumps of the departing posse.

"Yep," confirmed Bruce.

After lunch and a swim in the pristine falls, we picked up Agent 007's now cold trail and returned to the barn.

"That was pleasant," I said while driving toward the South Shore.

"Nice, but a little boring," opined Camille.

"Well, what are the druthers?" I asked.

"Zipline!"

Ziplining is Kauai's newest aerial thrill.

"It's completely safe," our guide, Jill, noted after seeing the panic on my face as the van pulled into Kipu Ranch, a private, 2,500-acre working ranch that opens its gates to small groups led by local outfitters.

" 'Raiders of the Lost Ark' was filmed here," added Jill, as our little band trekked single file under a canopy of multihued trees. It was too hot to talk, and everyone was relieved to hear the roar of Kamapua'a Falls, our first stop. A picnic table filled with chilled juice and macadamia nut cookies greeted us. After fueling up, we were led by Jill up a two-tiered flight deck, studded into the trunk of banyan tree, with a commanding a view of the river.

After discussing ground-school rules, Jill helped us into our two-piece harnesses.

"Yank up on the bottom harness," instructed Jill. "Then clamp your harness's hooks onto the cable. Helmets are mandatory -- and smelly -- so put them on right before you fly."

People prone to acrophobia wouldn't jump at a chance to soar Peter Pan-style, 50 feet above a surging river at 35 mph. Once suited up, though, I found the idea exhilarating -- just not exhilarating enough to go first.

"There's three techniques," explained Jill. "The brave face forward, the cautious go backward, and the carefree let go and flip upside down."

"Ha-ha," chuckled a 70-year-old woman as she peeled off her harness, obviously not realizing what she was getting into.

Camille strapped on her helmet and, once hooked up, grabbed the line and jumped. The line's whooshing sound sliced through the silent jungle as it hurled her 275 feet across the river, bouncing her like a pogo stick.

Just shy of banging into a tree trunk, she ricocheted back toward the falls, then bonged like Tigger to the opposite bank and hovered over the landing platform until another guide helped her dismount.

Perspiring, I gripped the line, turned cautious, shut my eyes and jumped. I felt like a yo-yo sprouting springs, but came in for a perfect landing. Inflated with new vigor, we scurried across a swinging bridge for more. By the end of the afternoon we had graduated to carefree!

"Those interested in swinging like Tarzan from a tree, follow me," said Jill.

A short strenuous hike through slippery mangrove trees led us to Kipu Falls.

The scene was surreal. We were cloistered in a jungle, beating our chests and jumping under a waterfall. One by one we grabbed a thick rope, swung over the river, dropped feet first, and landed in the water with a moist thud. The river refreshed, but the current was swift.

After a dip, we hiked backed to the van. We stopped at Poipu Beach to investigate a rare site: A white monk seal had come ashore to birth her pup.

Our last evening in Kauai, we watched the orange sun descend into the ocean from our condo. We relived our week on hoof, foot, sea and air and agreed that Kauai is the best place on Earth for balance.

IF YOU GO

ACTIVITIES

Surfing and kayaking -- Kayak Kauai; 800-437-3507, 808-826-9844, www.kayakkauai.com

Kipu Falls zipline -- Outfitters Kauai; 888-742-9887, 808-742-9667, www.outfitterskauai.com

Silver Falls Ranch -- 808-828-6718, www.silverfallsranch.com

ACCOMMODATIONS

Family hotel on the East Shore -- Aloha Beach Resort, 3-5920 Kuhio Highway, Kapa'a; 888-823-5111, www.abrkauai.com

Upscale and kid friendly on the North Shore -- Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; 800-826-4400, 808-826-9644, www.princeville.com

Condominiums on the beach with all amenities -- Outrigger Kiahuna Plantation, 2253 Poipu Road, Poipu; 808-742-6411 (direct), 800-688-7444 (Outrigger reservations), www.outrigger.com/hotels_detail.aspx?hotel=22

GENERAL INFORMATION

Kauai Visitors Bureau -- 800-262-1400; 808-245-3971; www.kauaidiscovery.com

Stephanie Levin is a freelance writer based in San Francisco. She can be reached at mamsa1991@yahoo.com.