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Thursday, December 16, 2004
Short Trips: Head north for a winter wonderland
By JEFF LARSEN
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER PHOTOGRAPHER
VANCOUVER, B.C. -- A trip to Vancouver over the holiday season doesn't have to be just about shopping. It can be as much fun as peering over the railing of a 230-foot-high suspension bridge into a raging river gorge, riding a tramway to the top of a 3,700-foot, snow-covered peak overlooking the city, or hopping a miniature train through an extraordinary Christmas display in Stanley Park -- all in the same day.
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 | JEFF LARSEN / P-I | |
| Early morning skiers at Grouse Mountain get a spectacular view of Mount Baker in Washington. | ||
Tourist James Park glanced over his right shoulder, raised his tiny digital camera to about eye level with arms outstretched in front of him, quickly glanced over his other shoulder, then clicked the shutter for a self-portrait with the Capilano Suspension Bridge in the background.
He said he took the picture to show his friends and relatives back home in his native England that he had visited his hometown's namesake bridge in North Vancouver. Park hails from the small town of Capilano in Lancashire.
Park's self-portrait was just one of hundreds of photographs snapped by tourists who braved typical Northwest windy, rainy weather last Friday to cross the spectacular 450-foot-long pedestrian suspension bridge more than 230 feet above the storm-swollen Capilano River. A 20 percent rainy-day admission discount -- to approximately $15.50 U.S. -- was in effect and for good reason. The wet and slightly wobbly walk across the bridge isn't usually addressed in brochures as a Vancouver holiday destination. But at one point I counted six impromptu photo sessions on the bridge at the same time. I sensed that prints of a lot of those photos were headed for the insides of holiday greeting cards.
Decorative lights have been added for the holidays to give the bridge and surroundings a mildly festive look, but they didn't distract from the beauty and sanctity of the forest.
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| JEFF LARSEN / P-I | |
| Two-year-old Ethan Cherry is bathed in light from a row of electric candles at "Bright Nights." | ||
Besides the huge attraction of the suspension bridge itself, the parklike setting features what's called Treetops Adventure, which consists of a series of smaller wooden-planked suspension bridges strung between some of the giant old-growth trees in the forested area across the gorge. Even at midday, especially with a heavy cloud cover, it felt like late evening while walking from tree to tree because of how little light penetrated the thick forest mantle.
The current suspension bridge was built in 1956, but the site has been a popular attraction since George Grant Mackay strung his first cedar plank and hemp rope bridge across the gorge in the late 1800s. Word spread back then and visitors from all over the world -- just like today -- flocked to the site after a rigorous passage by boat across Burrard Inlet, then a hike to the bridge up the steep hill from the waterfront -- the same ground now covered by Capilano Road. The Lions Gate Bridge at the edge of Stanley Park now joins Vancouver proper to North Vancouver, eliminating the need for a boat ride.
Other attractions at the park include the Story Center, a living forest exhibit, the Big House Native Carving Center, a cantilevered deck along the edge of the canyon, Pioneer Garden, Canyon Cafe and the logger's grill.
My holiday excursion plans originally included a Friday morning tramway ride (officially called the Skyride) to Grouse Mountain, a popular ski and tourist destination high in the mountains of North Vancouver. The first tram was supposed to leave the docking station at 9 a.m., but high winds, fog and melting snow at the top curtailed operations for most of the day. So I decided to switch gears and try again Saturday morning.
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| JEFF LARSEN / P-I | |
| Folks gingerly make their way across the rocky Capilano Suspension Bridge, a huge attraction for the region even on a rainy day. | ||
The tramway cancellation actually gave me more time at the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which is only about three miles from the Grouse Mountain parking lot on the way back to the Westin Bayshore Resort near Stanley Park, where I was staying. By the way, it's only about a 15-minute drive from Stanley Park to the suspension bridge and Grouse Mountain.
Friday night after dinner I took the 10-minute walk from the hotel to Stanley Park to check out the seventh annual "Bright Nights in Stanley Park" holiday light display that runs daily (except Christmas day) through Jan. 2. I had no idea what to expect. I read online that more than a million lights are used in the display and a miniature train is involved somehow.
Just before I entered the park, I asked a horse-mounted police officer which direction to take to the display. He told me to walk straight up a nearby path and I couldn't miss the lights through the trees.
That was an understatement.
After about a five-minute walk, I spotted the lights. Spread out before me was the most amazing holiday light display I have ever seen. Most of the nearby towering trees were filled with multiple colored lights. It seemed like every imaginable holiday- or Christmas-related display was alight on the grounds: Santa Claus figures of every ilk, Dalmatians, Disney characters, a 7-foot-tall, 800-pound polystyrene polar bear, trolls, Santa Claus helpers, manger scenes, even a giant blow-up Homer Simpson. And all delighted the hundreds of families there that evening; many of them make the odyssey to the display an annual event.
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| JEFF LARSEN / P-I | |
| During the miniature train ride at the "Bright Lights in Stanley Park" display, riders get a mini light show to the tune of Elvis Presley's "Blue Christmas." | ||
The popular 15-minute, miniature-train excursion through a forested area of the park, past more incredible holiday light displays, is a visual overload that's worth every cent of the $5.65 (U.S.) admission price -- rain or no rain. The train car seats are a little cramped for adults, but there's still enough room to tap your foot to a variety of Christmas music tracks that are coordinated with displays along the route. About five minutes into the ride, as the train navigated a tunnel of blue Christmas lights, Elvis Presley's famous 1950s soulful holiday tune "Blue Christmas" replaced a traditional rendition of "The Twelve Days of Christmas."
Near the end of the ride -- this even startled me -- an Elvis impersonator on stilts burst out of a strange-looking, free-standing stage in the park and gyrated wildly as he headed toward the train out of the darkness, all the while lip-syncing one of the King's rock 'n' roll holiday tunes. The scene was surreal but a lot of fun.
Half the train-ride tickets are available through Ticketmaster. The other half are sold only on the premises on a first-come, first-served basis, beginning at noon each day. Because of high demand, especially on weekends, visitors are advised to arrive early and purchase a ticket for a time slot or buy tickets in advance. The train runs until 10 p.m. daily. Parking is free in the Stanley Park lots nearest the display and some accessible parking is available as well. Bus service is available from downtown Vancouver.
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| JEFF LARSEN / P-I | |
| Visitors take a break during their visit to the Capilano Suspension Bridge forest exhibit in North Vancouver, B.C. | ||
Admission to the "Bright Nights" display is free, with donations accepted to support the Burn Fund, a non-profit charity established by the BC Professional Fire Fighters Association.
Luckily the weather on Saturday morning cleared, the temperature at the base of Grouse Mountain dropped more than 30 degrees -- to below freezing -- and the wind subsided. With Christmas lights still dancing in my eyes from the night before, I arrived early enough to hop the first tramcar, along with a hundred or so skiers and snowboarders. The milelong tramway is the longest in North America. Weather permitting, a car leaves every 15 minutes from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
I think I heard every superlative imaginable about the views during my rides up and down the mountain. Skiing turned out to be a little dicey because of the extreme icy conditions from Friday's thaw and Saturday morning's freeze. But the panoramic view of Vancouver and the surrounding waterways made up for it.
Through Dec. 24, depending on weather and especially snow conditions, Grouse Mountain will feature a variety of holiday events called "Peak of Christmas." From noon to 8 p.m. daily, children can meet Santa in a perfect winter setting.
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Wildlife rangers will describe interesting characteristics of reindeer, with one of the creatures present for the discussions at 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. daily. Sleigh rides will be offered from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, again depending on the weather and snow conditions. During certain times of the day you may even catch holiday carolers at various locations. Outdoor ice-skating on a makeshift pond also will be available, including skate rentals.
Other year-round facilities on the mountain include The Peak Chalet, two gift shops, Theater in the Sky and three restaurants, casual to fine dining.
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