North Cascades campgrounds are jumping off points for some great explorations

NEWHALEM -- You can zip through North Cascades National Park on scenic state Route 20 for the quick "Wow!" factor, but to really know its more than half-million acres, its rugged, remote peaks and spires and towering old-growth forests, you have to get a little sweaty, dirty and wet.

So perhaps it was most appropriate when -- in the middle of the night snug inside the tent at Colonial Creek Campground -- the rain came pounding down. And down, and down, all night and into the morning.

At least we had taken a mighty fine hike and enjoyed a warm, pleasant evening around the campfire before the deluge.

		Joshua Trujillo / P-I
	Whatcom County residents Craig and Jenna Lunde gaze into their campfire at Goodell Creek Campground. Usually, demand for the campsites is limited, but damage to Mount Rainier National Park and the closure of Rockport State Park may change that this year.

This is, after all, a park with more than 300 glaciers, more than 300 lakes and ponds, many rushing rivers and creeks, peaks of 7,000 to 9,000 feet and trees wider at the waist than Aunt Myrtle without a girdle.

Inside North Cascades National Park, "frontcountry" facilities are decidedly lacking. There is no sky tram, no paved Hurricane Ridge-like road, no rough-hewn historic log lodges -- not even any restaurants.

But there are miles and miles of trails into the wilderness -- many long and steep, but some short and sweet -- and a handful of classic campgrounds nestled into the forest just off state Route 20, the "North Cascades Highway." These serve as fine base camps for exploring what North Cascades National Park is really all about.

"In general there's a lot of solitude here in the park, a lot of pristine wilderness to enjoy, and the campgrounds are a nice extension of that," says Jeff Muse, director of the North Cascades Institute's beautiful new environmental learning center on Diablo Lake. "Most of the campsites are very private because of the trees. It's a nice place to set down for a weekend and enjoy the park."

With Memorial Day weekend about to kick off the camping season in the Northwest, it's also interesting to note that these campgrounds are not always full, even on holiday weekends. No one is sure exactly why, but for some reason demand for sites at the four National Park Service campgrounds in the Newhalem area is not as intense as elsewhere in Washington.

"A lot of times we're filled on Friday night, but not on Saturday night," says Dave Williams, manager of the park's Newhalem Visitor Center. "People come from Seattle going to Winthrop, and it's a convenient place to stop. Then they go up over (Washington Pass)."

		Joshua Trujillo / P-I
	A boat speeds across Ross Lake, one of more than 300 lakes and ponds in North Cascades National Park.

That might well change this year. The intense damage to Mount Rainier National Park during last winter's ferocious rain and windstorm and the loss of one campground there is leading some to speculate that campers will be looking for other areas this summer. Furthermore, the spacious and popular Rockport State Park to the west on state Route 20 will be closed this year because of safety concerns about the decaying old-growth trees that surround its campsites.

Our visit seemed to bear that out. Although all of Colonial Creek Campground is scheduled to be open by this weekend -- including the popular north section that had been closed since a storm in 2003 -- on our mid-May visit only a few sites were officially open. Nonetheless, by just after nightfall at least 30 sites were occupied, and someone actually had pitched a tent on the grass near the RV pump station.

"We have been off most people's radar, and perhaps that's changing this year," says Muse. "It seems like there's more traffic this year than in the past. It seems like everybody is itching to get up over the pass."

Whatever the case, these are true national park campgrounds. None has trailer or RV hook-ups for water or electricity. None has showers. Of the four Park Service campgrounds in the Newhalem area, sites may be reserved only at one, the 111-site Newhalem Creek.

		Joshua Trujillo / P-I
	Dave Archibeck of Redmond fly fishes on Diablo Lake, which last year the state stocked with trout bred from wild, native Skagit River rainbows caught in nearby Ross Lake.

"It's real camping," says Williams.

What they do have are plenty of trees, plenty of great trails nearby, and all four are on or close to water.

Colonial Creek is the largest and most popular, with 162 sites stretching from the shore of Diablo Lake's Thunder Arm upland into beautiful old-growth fir and cedar forest. Here you will hear rRufous hummingbirds zinging between the trees and a variety of woodpeckers hammering dead wood.

Colonial Creek is popular among kayakers who come to paddle Thunder Arm and the rest of 910-acre Diablo Lake, which is actually a reservoir behind Seattle City Light's Diablo Dam. The campground also features a fishing dock accessible to those of limited mobility, and it serves as trailhead for two very nice hikes.

These are the Thunder Creek Trail, which climbs 2,300 feet over 4.6 miles to astonishing mountain and glacier views at Fourth of July Pass, and the Thunder Knob Trail. The latter gains a modest 425 feet over 1.8 miles to a rocky viewpoint among pine trees above Diablo Lake.

The Thunder Creek Trail especially is a North Cascades classic, traveling along an urgently rushing glacial stream through dramatic old-growth forests to superb alpine views.

"This park is not a place you're going to experience best in your car," said the institute's Muse. "It's best enjoyed when people park their cars and get out on the trail."

		Joshua Trujillo / P-I
	A truck tows a camper across Diablo Lake on state Route 20, which offers a lovely scenic view. There are more than half-million acres, filled with rugged, remote peaks and towering old-growth forests in North Cascades National Park.

Recent reports indicate the snow has melted enough for hikers to reach Fourth of July Pass.

If you stay at Colonial Creek, or Gorge Lake Campground a few miles west, and like to angle, bring your fishing rod. The state Department of Fish and Wildlife last year began stocking Diablo and Gorge lakes with trout bred from wild, native Skagit River rainbows captured in nearby Ross Lake.

"That should very quickly start increasing the abundance of rainbow in those two reservoirs," says Mark Downing, state fish biologist for the region. "I think they should provide decent fishing even this year."

These 'bows now range from 10 to 12 inches and in years to come should grow larger.

Gorge Lake Campground is tiny, with only seven sites, but set in pretty forest right on the lake. It was refurbished last year and offers a boat launch.

		Joshua Trujillo / P-I
	Visitors take in a view of Ross Lake from an overlook along state Route 20.

The other two campgrounds are along or near the mighty Skagit River. Goodell Creek is another small one at 21 sites, but popular because it hugs the Skagit. Newhalem offers 111 sites in mostly second-growth forest, but is right next to the Newhalem visitors center, with its excellent interpretive displays. Short trails spiral around it.

The 1.7-mile River Loop Trail samples remnant old growth -- there's a hollow red cedar the kids will want to duck into -- and the river environment. Other short trails explore more mature forest with huge cedars and an ancient native rock shelter.

Rangers also lead interpretive programs at Newhalem and Colonial Creek; topics this weekend are wilderness and bears.

Avid hikers will find some hard-core trips here later as the snow melts. Thornton Lake/Trappers Peak gains between 2,600 to 3,500 feet, depending on how far you go, and offers superb views of the extremely remote and legendary Picket Range. If you really want to make your thighs cry, the trail to Sourdough Mountain gains 5,100 punishing feet over 6.5 miles to a historic lookout once manned by beat poet Gary Snyder.

On these trails you will get dirty and sweaty, but you will get to know the real North Cascades National Park. And you can always beat it back to your campsite, where you might also get wet. So don't forget your tent's rain fly.

North Cascades notes

For more information about North Cascades National Park and its trails and campgrounds, see nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/camping.htm or call 360-854-7200.

		Seattle P-I

North Cascades Institute operates an environmental learning center at Diablo Lake, the scenic setting for a host of fascinating nature programs. See ncascades.org or call 360-856-5700, ext. 209.

Seattle City Light offers scenic boat tours on Diablo Lake as well as interesting tours of the facilities at its Skagit River Hydroelectric Project. See seattle.gov/light/tours/skagit or call 206-684-3030.

For information about lodging, food and services in the upper Skagit Valley, see the North Cascades Business Association site, marblemount.com.