Classic lodges of the Olympic Peninsula provide perfect getaways to national park

It might strike you as curious that the Olympic Peninsula, noted for its natural wild settings, also is jammed with recent history.

Though Spaniards explored the peninsula by sea starting in the late 1700s, this is one of the last places in the continental United States to be settled. Just 150 years ago, the entire Olympic Peninsula was wilderness.

Perhaps that's why history here seems so tangible.

For example, the Spruce Railroad, now a wonderful hiking trail, was built during World War I to haul out Sitka spruce for the manufacture of warplanes; the war ended before it could ever serve its original purpose.

Directly across the lake is the historic Lake Crescent Lodge where Franklin Delano Roosevelt spent a night in 1937 on a landmark tour that resulted in the creation of Olympic National Park, which now protects 922,651 acres of wilderness on the peninsula.

To the south on one of the peninsula's other large bodies of freshwater, Lake Quinault Lodge is another historic site, where FDR stopped for lunch.

In between those two lodges, on the park's stunning ocean shoreline, is Kalaloch Lodge, another aging wooden structure that has served as a retreat for generations of Northwest families.

Today, these three rustic timbered lodges serve as intriguing places to lay your head while exploring Olympic National Park's world-class network of trails, its high peaks, mossy rainforests, wild ocean beaches, waterfalls, lakes and rivers, and for experiencing its magical flora and fauna.

"Going to Lake Crescent Lodge always feels like you're going back in time," says Barb Maynes, park spokeswoman. "The sun porch there I think is wonderful -- you look out over the lake -- and then there's the walk along the lakeshore, the Moments in Time Trail.

"I can just imagine ladies of long ago in long skirts strolling along there."

The Lake Crescent and Lake Quinault lodges are listed on the national register of historic places. Kalaloch Lodge does not meet the federal requirements for such designation, says Paul Gleeson, the park's chief of cultural resources. But it certainly is listed on my personal register of historic places, since my parents hauled the family out there most every year as I grew up.

		Gilbert W. Arias / P-I
	A visitor takes in the view of the Pacific Ocean at Kalaloch Lodge.

The attractions to all three of these lodges are not just the structures themselves, but maybe even more so their locations. None can be fully appreciated in one visit.

Lake Crescent Lodge

"We have people who come back year after year," says Gary Wood, manager of Lake Crescent Lodge. "They'll stay in one of the cabins and say, 'That's been our cabin for generations.'

"We're kind of a base camp for activities in the park. People go out to the coast, up to Hurricane Ridge, the rainforest. None of our rooms have televisions or video games. People just want to get away. It's just a nice, quiet experience."

Lake Crescent Lodge began its life in 1916 as Singer's Lake Crescent Tavern, a retreat for sportsmen. At one time, 26 resorts dotted the shores of the lake, most reached via steamer.

On a recent visit, we stayed in one of the lodge's shoreside Roosevelt Cottages, and in the evening walked the Moments in Time Trail, which wanders the shore and surrounding mossy, old forest. Here we encountered Arthur and Carolyn Donovan, from Long Island, on a visit with their grandchildren.

"The park is everything it's supposed to be," says Carolyn, as grandson Oliver Schuman skipped rocks on the lake. "We went to Hurricane Ridge today -- it was beautiful."

The Moments in Time Trail is an easy loop of less than a mile. For something more adventurous, you've got plenty of options. The Spruce Railroad Trail follows an undeveloped stretch of the lake's north shore for four miles, past old tunnels and other railroad relics, and also bridges the exquisite, deep and rocky cove known as the Devil's Punchbowl.

Superb high views of the lake can be reached -- at least once the snow melts -- via trails up the lake's two signature peaks, Mount Storm King (2.2 miles to a nice viewpoint, with a gain of 2,000 feet) on the south and Pyramid Peak (3.5 miles and 2,600 feet) on the north. On top of the latter is another wartime artifact, a World War II spotting tower.

Another easy trail that starts near the lodge goes to pretty Marymere Falls, a 90-foot ribbon of white reached in less than a mile, with a gain of 400 feet.

A huge attraction here is the 10-mile, glacially carved lake itself, 640 feet at its deepest and its azure waters stunningly clear. It would make a wonderful kayak or canoe trip.

"A lot of people rent one of our rowboats and row over to hike the Spruce Railroad Trail," Wood says.

Lake Crescent Lodge and its restaurant are open seasonally, beginning in early May. But its cabins along the lakeshore -- the Roosevelt Cottages -- are open year-round.

Kalaloch Lodge

All of the facilities at Kalaloch are open year-round, including the main lodge. Built in the 1940s after the original structure burned down, it overlooks the ocean at the mouth of Kalaloch Creek. Also popular are its cabins, many of which are perched on the bluff right above the crashing surf of the Pacific.

And make no mistake, the ocean is the grand attraction here.

Between Kalaloch and the Hoh Reservation to the north, you've got 10 blissful miles of pristine ocean shore protected by Olympic National Park.

"You can go all the way to Ruby Beach on the right tide," says my friend, Tom Northup, a former state shellfish biologist who grew up in the tiny nearby village of Clearwater. "There are a couple headlands you need a low tide to go around. That's a neat hike. You see a lot of eagles and often otters, seals and whales. Those beaches are so accessible, but there are spots where you can get away from people."

To the south, it's about five miles along the shore to the Quinault Reservation.

If a storm is howling, sit tight by the fire in your cabin. Or dine in the lodge's restaurant while taking in "the sight of salt water unbounded -- The heave and the halt and the hurl and the crash of the comber wind-hounded," to borrow the words of Kipling ("Who Hath Desired the Sea").

When the storm breaks, it's time to comb the beach for treasures. The grand prize is a glass float, of the kind once used on the top lines of fishing nets. Although these have been replaced by plastic and are no longer used by fishermen, many still circle in the ocean and some wash ashore regularly. I found a basketball-sized one near Kalaloch 12 years ago.

"People love to beachcomb," says Renee Rux, the friendly general manager of the resort. "Everyone has their own idea of what treasure is. It's always neat to see what people find."

		Gilbert W. Arias / P-I
	Aluminum boats line the beach at Lake Crescent Lodge.

Surf-perch fishing is popular when the breakers are mild; the incoming tide is best and Beach Four north of the lodge is a good spot. Long casting rods work best, and terminal tackle consists of a teardrop sinker below two leaders spaced about a foot apart. Sand shrimp and pieces of clam are good baits. In summer, Beach Four also is a popular spot for those using dip-nets to catch tasty surf smelt. When weather is warm, you can wade without boots in just shorts, and if these small silver devils are running thick, you can sometimes feel them against your legs.

The attraction of the ocean at Kalaloch is so powerful that you might not feel the need to do anything else but experience it. But you must.

A few miles north of Kalaloch along Highway 101, watch for a "Big Tree" sign; turn inland and drive about a quarter-mile. Follow the trail a hundred yards or so to what experts say is one of the largest western red cedars in the solar system. The biggest is to the south, near Lake Quinault Lodge, but this centuries-old beast is intriguing -- hollow and rotting, as many old cedars are, with an incredible, twisted, gnarly girth.

It is so old and so huge that other large trees are growing from its shoulders. Most people circle the cedar with wonder, then turn around and leave. But if big cedars stoke your wow meter like they do mine, the short tail continues into a grove of other huge specimens of Thuja plicata. Take it and gaze upward.

Lake Quinault Lodge

		Gilbert W. Arias / P-I
	The historic Lake Quinault Lodge commands a lovely view of the lake and Olympic Mountains.

About 25 miles south and east of Kalaloch, Lake Quinault Lodge rounds out the hat trick of the Olympic Peninsula's great lodges. It is the largest and most commercial of the three -- you can get a room with television here -- but the lodge itself, erected in 1926, is still rustic and splendid.

Trails and roads in this region were absolutely blasted by last winter's storms, but road that loops around the lake was scheduled to be reopened by now, and it is a great drive or bicycle ride in the morning and evening. The gravel portion of the road through the rainforest bottoms at the east end of the lake; this is one of the most reliable places anywhere to see Roosevelt elk and deer, and occasionally bear, bobcat and even cougar.

As of this writing, the Gatton Creek and Willaby Creek hiking trails near the lodge along South Sore Road were impassable because of giant, blown-down trees. However, the nearby 3.9-mile Quinault Loop Trail and the half-mile Rain Forest Nature Trail are open and travel magnificent forest of giant Douglas fir, western hemlock and red cedar.

Stop first at the Quinault Ranger Station next to the lodge for a handy map and condition updates on the trails.

Other short ones worth hiking include the Largest Spruce Tree Trail, also off South Shore Road near Rain Forest Resort, simply to witness the massive spectacle of what might be the biggest Sitka spruce anywhere. The pretty Maple Glade and Kestner Homestead trails start at the North Shore Ranger Station (open summertime only) off North Shore Road and sample the mossy rainforest. The Quinault Big Cedar Trail off the North Shore Road is only a half-mile, but travels to the largest known western red cedar, 174 feet tall and 19.5 feet in diameter.

Lake Quinault itself is also a worthy kayak or canoe trip and in late April opens to fishing for cutthroat trout; you'll need permits from the Quinault Tribe for both activities, available at the Amanda Park store along Highway 101.

Another activity I enjoyed on a recent visit was just sitting by the fireplace in the main lodge and bending my elbow with a beer from the adjacent Roosevelt Dining Room. Here FDR enjoyed lunch on Oct. 1, 1937.

Sitting by the fire near that very spot seemed a fine way to appreciate the history of these great peninsula lodges.

IF YOU GO

Lake Crescent Lodge -- Circa 1916; on the shore of the Olympic Peninsula's largest natural lake, about 18 miles west of Port Angeles. lakecrescentlodge.com; 360-928-3211.

Kalaloch Lodge -- Opened in 1931; rebuilt after a fire in 1946. Perched on a bluff above Olympic National Park's stunning wilderness coast about 70 miles north of the Aberdeen/Hoquiam area. visitkalaloch.com; 866-525-2562.

Lake Quinault Lodge -- Built in 1926. Looks out over a large natural lake on the Quinault Indian Reservation about 45 miles north of the Aberdeen/Hoquiam area. visitlakequinault.com; 360-288-2900.

Olympic National Park -- Surrounds all three lodges and protects some of the finest trails, forests, rivers and wild beaches in the world. nps.gov/olym; 360-565-3130.

Guidebook -- For trails in and around the park, "Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula" by Craig Romano (Mountaineers,355 pages, $18.95).