Clipper cruises to Friday Harbor fun

When I was growing up, visiting family on Orcas Island always meant playing the "will we make the ferry?" game.

Even if we arrived early in Anacortes and took our place in the sea of cars, there always was the chance that there wouldn't be room on board. And coming back was far worse -- an all-day ordeal involving waiting and moving the car until you finally got onto the ferry.

That's why I was so excited when I spotted a sign near the Victoria Clipper dock, touting its nonstop service to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. The 3 1/2-hour cruise can be taken as a day trip or as a vacation package with overnight accommodations at several hotels in the county seat of the San Juans.

On a recent Friday, my husband and I hopped on our bicycles and rode from Lower Queen Anne to the pier around 6:30 a.m., barely beating the rush hour traffic. It's $10 extra to check a bike, but it gives you freedom to explore on the other end. It was only

after I got there that I learned San Juan Island is pretty darned hilly. I'd rather tackle terrain that's as flat as a flapjack, but I figured out a way around working too hard. More about that later.

When we shoved off, the weather in Seattle was the perfect picture of June gloom. The Friday Harbor-bound Clipper travels along the shoreline, north towards Edmonds and eventually slipping through the narrow channel at Deception Pass.

		Dan DeLong / P-I
	An Orca named Ruffles, also known as J-1, surfaces for the passengers of the Victoria Clipper in Boundary Bay.

While most passengers sipped coffee and looked out the window, there was a group of kids from John Muir Elementary doing what excited kids do on a field trip -- running around.

The friendly first mate reminded them to hang on to rails because the surprisingly nimble boat makes sudden turns to dodge debris in the water.

There was a naturalist, Kwasi Addae, on board, primarily for the second leg of the journey, a two-hour whale watching tour after dropping passengers in Friday Harbor.

Along the way, Addae pointed out bald eagle nests (we never actually saw any of these birds, not on the boat ride anyway). A few days earlier, passengers were treated to the sight of migratory gray whales working their way back up the coast from wintering in Mexico. (If you have binoculars, don't forget to bring them, though they're for rent on board, too.)

Do-it-yourself nature lovers can pore over the reference material, kept in a plastic bin on the second of three levels. There also was plenty of reading material on the history of the region and guidebooks offering tips on where to dine and shop.

Despite the inclement weather, the ride was fairly smooth. Dramamine is sold for 25 cents in the snack counter. If you're susceptible to motion sickness, take it as soon as you get on board for it to be most effective.

We arrived shortly before lunch, just enough time to pedal around the compact town, which hadn't changed much since I had last visited some 15 years ago. The charmingly old-fashioned Palace movie theater is still in business, though the selection of gourmet groceries and wine at Kings Market has expanded dramatically. It's still the best place to pick up picnic supplies.

We ate lunch at Steps Wine Bar, tucked into a tricky-to-find location off one of the main streets. The kitchen proudly credits local farmers and producers for foods featured on its menu. I loved the clever twist on the traditional Nicoise salad, with seared albacore tuna taking a supporting role to the Sunnyside-up duck egg nestled in the middle of well-dressed greens.

It was too early to check in at our overnight lodging, Friday Harbor House, so we hopped back on the bikes and headed out to roam around the edge of town. It's impressive that despite the growth, the island maintains a real rural feel.

Back in town, bustling with weekend traffic, I wandered through some shops and wondered how a burg this size could support so many ice cream outlets. After browsing and buying at Harbor Bookstore, I asked the friendly clerk for advice on where to eat dinner. Without hesitation, he raved about The Place Bar & Grill, a chef-owned establishment that couldn't be any closer to the water. It overlooks the ferry landing.

Later, after having a glass of wine and enjoying the gorgeous views from the lawn at Friday Harbor House, we walked a few blocks to the restaurant to check on whether we could get in without a reservation. Not a problem. And the clerk was right. My Thai-style bouillabaisse was one of the most innovative seafood dishes I've ever enjoyed.

		Dan DeLong / P-I
	Friday Harbor on San Juan Island is a bustling port during vacation season. The Victoria Clipper operates daily service from downtown Seattle to Friday Harbor during the summer months.

After dinner, we took advantage of the lingering light to walk down to the nearby dock and admire the boats. The resident harbor seal, a friendly female known as Popeye, entertained us. (Popeye's picture hangs in the seafood market on the dock, a good spot to pick up some edible souvenirs of your trip to cook once you get back home.)

The following morning, the sun was shining and after enjoying our complimentary breakfast -- complete with homemade pastries and jam, and coffee from San Juan Roasters -- we pedaled toward Roche Harbor.

First, I have to confess that I phoned the local bike shop to ask the best route for a complete hill-hating wimp like me. (Or as my long-suffering husband refers to me, a "weekend rider.") The road to Roche Harbor was gentle rolling hills, the voice on the other end assured.

Ha!

I had lots of company huffing and puffing up those not so rolling hills, as there was some kind of bike-a-thon going on that lovely morning. The birds were singing, the spring flowers smelled sweet enough to set off somebody's allergy attack. Cars gave us a wide berth. I finally quit griping after seeing somebody twice my age putting her mettle to the pedal.

As we passed San Juan Island Vineyards, I wondered if it was too early to stop for some sampling. Other bikers had the same idea, dismounting at this welcoming tasting room, but I pushed on, trying to catch up with the blur in the distance, better known as my husband.

I was rewarded at the end of the road by an unexpected gem, the Westcott Bay Sculpture Park. Founded in 2001 as part of the Westcott Bay Institute for Art and Nature, this rambling park covers several acres. More than 100 works by local artists are installed throughout the park, which includes forests, a pond and a meadow. There isn't enough room in this space to list all my favorites.

As we sat on a patch of grass, surrounded by the beautiful artworks, feasting on Bing cherries, a pair of bald eagles flew right overhead. It was one of those close encounters with nature that reminded me how special this place is.

		Dan DeLong / P-I
	Visitors view the skeletons of an infant gray whale and an adult orca (top) at The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor.

The same sentiment didn't hold true when we biked over to Roche Harbor. The historic Hotel de Haro still looks regal. But the faux Victorian village that's grown up around it? Not my cup of English breakfast. (Although, I did find some cool stuff to buy at the high-end home decor store that had opened recently.)

And how did I plan to haul my trinkets back to Friday Harbor? Well, I caught the bus, of course. San Juan Transit has regular service around the island and will accommodate a bike -- if there's room.

Fortunately, on the ride back to Friday Harbor, it was just me and the chatty driver, a third-generation islander, who gave me the skinny on all sorts of island trivia. Well worth the $3 fare.

And you know who biked back to Friday Harbor -- the long way.

On the return trip to Seattle, we visited with people who had traveled a great distance to catch this leg of their journey, including a couple from Great Britain who had taken the train from New York City to Seattle. That afternoon, they had been thrilled to catch the splashy antics of a resident orca pod. Their only regret is that they didn't have more time to wander around Friday Harbor.

Oh, well. At least they didn't have to wait in a ferry line.

IF YOU GO

Victoria Clipper -- The 3 1/2-hour trips to Friday Harbor are daily, May through September. Round-trip fare from Seattle's Pier 69 is $65 when booked in advance on the Internet. Children under 12 travel free; kids 12 to 18 are half-price. The cost includes a two-hour whale-watching tour. The boat leaves Seattle at 7:45 a.m. and departs Friday Harbor on the return trip at 4:30 p.m.

Accommodations packages -- Overnight accommodation packages are available at several hotels in Friday Harbor, including Friday Harbor House, which offers one of the best views in town from its hillside perch. Book online through clippervacations.com or phone 800-888-2535 or 206-448-5000.

Steps Wine Bar and Cafe -- 140A First St., in the new Friday Harbor Center. The menu features mostly local ingredients, and the restaurant frequently has wine dinners. 360-370-5959; stepswinebarandcafe.com

The Place Bar & Grill -- A waterfront restaurant just down from the ferry landing. The chef-owned venue features an extensive selection of seafood. Reservations are essential during the busy summer season. 360-378-8707; theplacesanjuan.com

Westcott Bay Sculpture Park -- Open daily, dawn to dusk. Entrance by donation, $5 suggested for adults. The expansive park is part of the Westcott Bay Institute for Art and Nature, which sponsors various programs throughout the summer. Check its Web site for details -- westcottbay.org -- or call 360-370-5050.

San Juan Transit -- Regular bus service to the major attractions around the island including English Camp and American Camp, historic sites established during the famous Pig War standoff between the American Army and the British Navy in the mid 1800s. The company also offers guided tours and kayak treks. 800-887-8387, 360-378-8887; sanjuantransit.com