Combine trails for a lovely loop

What hiker doesn't love a loop? Some disdain any other kind of route. This year it's challenging to complete a loop without encountering snow, so given time constraints and lingering snow, Lola Kemp and I hiked the Palisades Trail (the lower end of a loop).

The hike starts out on the White River Trail (No. 1199) and in 0.2 mile reaches the signed trail junction for Palisades Trail (No. 1198). The Palisades Trail climbs through old-growth forest, and low clouds enhanced the tender green leaves of vine maple that recently have leafed out.

Big Douglas firs are placed so they seem to anchor the switchbacks, and we heard the roar of Lower Dalles Falls before it came into view, about a mile from the trailhead. In early June the 280-foot waterfall put on quite a display from recent snowmelt. View it from the trail or follow a rough spur for a closer look; later it dries to a trickle.

Beyond the waterfall, the terrain grows steep and rocky as the trail negotiates a tricky route between Dalles Creek and cliffs -- watch out for loose rocks. Years ago, scrambling skills came in handy for this steep pitch, but now a staircase built by Boy Scouts makes quick work of it. The trail then crosses Dalles Creek, where you may glimpse part of another waterfall some call Upper Dalles Creek Falls. Then the trail ducks back into mostly second-growth forest. We stopped at the first promontory along the Palisades but were denied heralded views of Sun Top Mountain and the White River Valley; instead we peered into a foggy void framed by Indian paintbrush and a pastel flutter of penstemon.

The trail re-enters forest, levels out and winds through a dark, claustrophobic stretch of lodgepole pine before it breaks out into the open again on the brink of North Snoquera Point, elevation 4,000 feet, about three miles from the trailhead. According to the late Harvey Manning's evocative trail description in the out-of-print "Footsore 1," from this point you can look straight down to Camp Sheppard and out to Mount Rainier, but all we saw were clouds.

The trail leaves the Palisades for forest, cuts through a recovering clearcut, then descends to cross Snoquera Creek. Here we encountered snow that was deep and undercut near the creek. On the other side of Snoquera Creek, the trail was snow-covered and, since we hadn't planned to hike the loop, it was a good place to turn around.

A couple of weeks later, I returned with Bob Dilg to hike the Ranger Creek Trail (No. 1197), the upper end of the loop. This trail also begins on the White River Trail a little farther east on state Route 410. A short spur from the highway leads to the signed White River Trail. We turned right and hiked 1/4 mile to the junction with the Ranger Creek Trail. (I had hopes of completing the loop, but kept this to myself because I didn't want to scare Bob away).

At this junction, the White River trail continues right, crosses Ranger Creek and continues to the Corral Pass Road. The Ranger Creek trail heads uphill (left). Note the debris from a landslide that occurred in the Ranger Creek gorge, probably a result of floods. Trail crews have already been at work, clearing out downed trees.

Fortunately the Ranger Creek Trail veers away from the disaster scene and enters mellow forest with a sprinkling of yellow violets, calypso orchids and vanilla leaf just starting to bloom. The trail climbs at a comfortable grade with switchbacks and we soon came to a split where a short spur (left) goes to the Little Ranger Peak overlook, about 2 1/2 miles from the trailhead. This is a premier lunch spot, with views of the White River Valley, and it also makes a good turnaround for a shorter hike.

After lunch we felt energetic enough to continue to the Ranger Creek shelter built by the Boy Scouts and possibly beyond. Patches of blue sky began to replace the evergreens as we climbed, but just about the time we felt we were within reach of the shelter, we hit the first snow patch.

Once you encounter that first patch, it usually is the beginning of the end. More snow patches are sure to follow and it is just a matter of time before you hit solid snow. We skirted the snow as best we could, pausing at a blow-down that obscured the trail. We found a way through that mess and picked up the trail again, only to be stopped by continuous snow.

Here the terrain was steep, the snow icy and, without ice axes, we didn't want to risk a tumble. Disappointed, we turned back but estimated we were within 1/2 mile of the shelter and the connection with the Palisades Trail (5,200 feet).

A few days later I heard from friends who had completed the loop. They did need to negotiate a couple of tricky spots in the snow, but from their report it is safe to say that by the time this description is printed the snow should be gone.

If you don't want to hike 15 miles, either the Palisades Trail or the Ranger Creek Trail offers good scenery. Though trail junctions are well marked, always bring map, compass and/or a GPS.

Incidentally, you can shorten the 15-mile loop with a car shuttle by leaving a car at each trailhead.

Though signs, maps and altimeters may vary slightly, a shuttle cuts off a few miles, making it a shorter loop (about 12 miles); otherwise, hike the White River Trail back to your starting point.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Palisades Trail -- From Enumclaw, drive 28 miles east on state Route 410. Look for a wide area on the left side of the highway just past the Skookum Falls viewpoint, elevation about 2,300 feet (no facilities). A Northwest Forest Pass is required at both trailheads. Allow about 1.5 hours from Seattle one way.

Ranger Creek Trail -- From Enumclaw, drive 29 miles east on state Route 410 and find limited parking on either side of the highway, elevation about 2,400 feet, no facilities. The trailhead is a little hard to spot. If you get to the Buck Creek road, you've gone too far. The hike starts on the left side of Route 410 on the White River Trail.

Trail data: The map is Green Trails No. 238 Greenwater. Other options: Palisades Trail to Snoquera Creek, 10 miles round trip with about 2,000 feet elevation gain. Palisades Trail to Lower Dalles Falls, about 3 miles round trip. Ranger Creek trail to Little Ranger Peak overlook, about 5.5 miles round trip with 1,400 feet of elevation gain.

Information: The Ranger Creek and White River trails also are open to mountain bikes and horses. For updates on trail conditions, call the Snoqualmie Ranger District (White River District) at 360-825-6585 or visit the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Web site at www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs. For history and inspiration refer to the out-of-print "Footsore 1" by Harvey Manning (Mountaineers Books), available in libraries and occasionally found in second-hand bookstores.

trail data

White River, Palisades and Ranger Creek trails in a loop

Length: 15 miles (approx.)

Elevation gain: 2,900 feet

Rating: Strenuous

Location: Greenwater

Scenery: Good (waterfalls, views of Mount Rainier, White River Valley)

Trail condition: Fair

Challenges: Loose rock on Palisades Trail; blow-down on Ranger Creek Trail; snow patches may linger at higher elevations