Spectacular sights await on a peaceful paddle near Vancouver, B.C.

The water is as still as glass as we kayak up the protected ocean inlet. Thick cedar and fir rain forest covers the mountains climbing upward on both sides. Occasionally, a harbor seal pokes up its head, training its curious large eyes on our movements. It is utterly peaceful -- the only sounds we hear are the occasional squawk from a seabird flying above and the slapping of our paddles on the water's surface.

We could be deep in the wilderness, far from civilization. Yet we are only a 30-minute drive from downtown Vancouver.

We are kayaking up Indian Arm -- a steep-sided, 18-mile glacial fjord branching north from Burrard Inlet, which separates Vancouver from its North Shore mountains.

For centuries, the Tsleil-Waututh First Nation lived in villages on both sides of Indian Arm. Today they jointly manage the area with the provincial government as a conservation park.

Known for its spectacular wilderness scenery and sheltered environment, Indian Arm is a paradise for paddlers, boaters and scuba divers. It makes for a perfect kayak or canoe day trip in the great outdoors when visiting Vancouver. Rentals are available for do-it-yourselfers. Or you can book a guided day trip with a canoe or kayak operator such as Lotus Land Tours, as we did.

Lotus Land picks up guests from its downtown hotels. But as we live in Vancouver, we joined our guide, Caroline Bradley, and the two other couples en route.

The drive at the edge of the city took us along a narrow road that winds through mostly uninhabited forest, then ends at a public access dock near Deep Cove in North Vancouver. We piled out of the van and helped Caroline unload the kayaks and equipment and carry everything down to the dock.

Before getting into the water, we were given a short kayaking lesson. Previous experience isn't necessary to join these trips, and the stable, wooden, two-seater kayaks are ideal for first-time paddlers. The young couple in our group -- from San Francisco for the weekend -- had never kayaked, and after going around in a couple of circles, they quickly got the hang of it and ended up being faster than my husband and I.

Not that we were aiming to go anywhere quickly. "This is a kayaker's dream," exclaimed Caroline as we slowed to look at big purple and orange sea stars clinging to the rocky shoreline and kept our eyes peeled for bald eagles overhead.

Land-based wildlife often is seen here too. Black bears, cougars, black-tailed deer, coyotes and red foxes all inhabit the area -- though we didn't spot any. Some 80 bird species have been identified. And in September, a large run of salmon makes its way up Indian Arm to spawn. The salmon often can be seen jumping along the shoreline in autumn -- and seals can be seen feeding on them.

With the waterfront mansions and cottages behind us, we crossed the inlet and squeezed through a tidal lagoon to approach Little Twin Island.

Little Twin is one of eight tiny islands dotting the southern half of Indian Arm where you can get out and stretch your legs. Farther north up Indian Arm, the shoreline steepens and snow-covered mountains rise in the distance, homes are few and far between, and the city truly is a distant memory. To paddle beyond the halfway point of Indian Arm, you need to be committed to a long day trip, or camp overnight.

At a small sand-and-gravel landing on Little Twin, Caroline jumped out and pulled our kayaks onto the beach. She made it so easy for us that we didn't even get our feet wet.

"Hungry?" she asked. We had been paddling for only an hour or so, but everyone was eager for lunch. While we explored the little islet, she set up a portable propane barbecue and threw on salmon fillets and corn-on-the-cob. This was served on china plates with pasta salad.

For dessert, we rinsed out the Japanese porcelain cups that contained our lemonade. These were filled with fresh strawberries and topped with whipped cream. We couldn't help but think that the other kayakers we passed on the island eating their cheese sandwiches would have been envious.

There's time for a quick swim (if it's warm enough) or to relax before packing up and kayaking back to the dock. But the time passes quickly, and it seemed our day had barely begun before it was over. In total, we kayaked about two hours, and my only regret is that I wished we could have spent more time on the water.

IF YOU GO