Hike of the Week: Big trees, waterfalls and spring flowers

Most hikers never get tired of spring, no matter how many we've experienced, and sighting the first trillium of the year is always cause for celebration. This year we saw our first trillium near Twin Falls in Olallie State Park. Visitors from another planet may have wondered what on earth we were so excited about. Most of us on this Mountaineers-led naturalist hike were in our 50s and 60s, but there we were -- practically jumping up and down with excitement.


	Hikers get a taste of the lush natural world along a deep-forest trail in the Twin Falls Natural Area of Olallie State Park, just off bustling Interstate 90. KAREN SYKES

Lowland trails are just coming into their glory. We also saw one bedraggled yellow violet in bloom, bleeding heart, coltsfoot, Indian plum, skunk cabbage, salmonberry, sticky geranium and youth-on-age plants. You needn't be an expert to hike with a naturalist group, and some of their knowledge is bound to rub off. Go out on enough of these outings and you will soon be able to tell the difference between columbine and scarlet gilia. You may even learn the difference between moss and lichen.

Hiker and naturalist John Martin pointed out dog lichen (Peltigera canina) and explained to us how plants were used as medicine in earlier times. What the plant looked like had much to do with the affliction it cured. For example, a plant with red stalks was used to treat diseases of the blood. Dog lichen (since it has a structure that looks like a tooth) was used to treat dental diseases. In Europe it was recommended as a treatment for rabies. Some believed that if you put dog lichen in your shoes, you wouldn't be bitten by a dog.

If you can pry yourself away from moss, lichen and flowers, there is much to see along this trail, including old-growth trees that measure up to 14 feet in diameter. Especially noteworthy is a grand old Douglas fir called the Grandfather Tree, which can be found about a mile from the start of the trail. And there's more. The Twin Falls Natural Area is just one piece of this state park.

Olallie State Park spans a 3.5-mile stretch along the South Fork of the Snoqualmie River. At the eastern end of the park and picnic area, a section of the historic Snoqualmie Pass Wagon Road remains. Traces of logs from the original roadbed (completed in 1869) can still be seen. This section of the park lies between the east and west offramps for Exit 38 of Interstate 90 (the road between the exits is a section of the Old Snoqualmie Pass Highway). The old highway ends below Weeks Falls and a power plant. A self-guided nature trail loops through the area and there are picnic tables.

For the most scenic hike, begin from the lower trailhead in the park, which includes the Twin Falls Natural Area. It is only 1.5 miles to the state-of-the-art bridge over the South Fork of the Snoqualmie River and views of Twin Falls. Those wanting to stretch their legs can include the overlook at the upper falls. Beyond the upper falls, the trail connects to the Iron Horse Trail and you can hike as far as time, conditions and energy allow. The Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad grade was once part of the longest electric-powered railroad line in the world. It was in operation between 1908 and 1980.

The trail follows the Snoqualmie River the first half-mile through ferns, ancient trees and wildflowers, dipping down to the river's edge at times. It then climbs away from the river and passes the Grandfather Tree, protected by a fence. At about a mile, a stairway descends to an overlook of the dramatic lower falls. The main trail continues to the bridge and views of the deep pools between the lower and upper falls. Admire the engineering that went into construction and placement of this bridge. The two wooden beams that seat the bridge were lifted in by helicopter. It is about 100 yards from the bridge to the upper falls overlook.

From the upper falls overlook, the trail climbs to a broad plateau with a scattering of big logs to sit on -- a good lunch spot. There are no views, but it is very quiet and pleasant. From the lunch spot, it is about a half-mile to the Iron Horse Trail and then another .7 mile to a feeder trail that descends to the upper trailhead and parking area for Twin Falls. The Iron Horse continues eastward.

Another option is to start from the upper Twin Falls trailhead. It is 1.6 miles to the falls from either trailhead. From the upper trailhead, hike up a short trail from the parking area to the Iron Horse Trail and turn right. If you turn left (east) you will come to Deception Crags, a popular climbing area. A short distance beyond the climbing rocks, the railroad grade crosses Hall Creek on a new bridge that replaces a missing trestle.

Yet another option is to leave a second car at the upper trailhead for a one-way hike of about four miles. For an even longer hike (or bike ride), begin from the trailhead at Rattlesnake Lake, elevation 970 feet. If you start from Rattlesnake Lake, visit the new Cedar River Watershed Education Center. The complex is a showpiece and is a joint project between Friends of the Cedar River Watershed and the City of Seattle. The center was designed by artists and is an impressive display of nature, history and art.

Hiking is not allowed in the Cedar River Watershed except through organized tours. Look for access to the Iron Horse Trail near the well-marked parking area at Rattlesnake Lake. It is about three miles to the trail junction for Twin Falls.

If you go...

GETTING THERE: Lower Twin Falls Trailhead -- Drive east on Interstate 90 and get off at Exit 34 (468th Avenue). Turn right on 468th Avenue Southeast, drive about a half-mile, then turn left on Southeast 159th Street. Continue a half-mile to road end, parking area and facilities, elevation 600 feet.

Upper Twin Falls Trailhead -- From I-90 eastbound, take Exit 38, cross the Snoqualmie River on a bridge and turn right to the parking lot for Twin Falls and Olallie State Park, elevation 1,200 feet.

Weeks Falls and picnic area, Olallie State Park: From I-90 eastbound, get off at Exit 38, cross the Snoqualmie River, then turn left and drive to the park and picnic area (it is .6 miles east of the parking lot for the Twin Falls trail).

Cedar Falls: Take Exit 32 from I-90 eastbound, turn right onto 436th Avenue Southeast (this becomes Cedar Falls Road). Continue on the road for about three miles until you come to the well-marked parking area or to the Cedar River Watershed Education Center at the end of the Cedar Falls Road (about five miles).

TRAIL DATA: From the lower Twin Falls trailhead, it is about three miles round trip with 500 feet elevation gain. It is the same mileage and elevation for the upper Twin Falls trailhead. The maps are Green Trails No. 206 Bandera, No. 206s Mount Washington.

INFORMATION: Refer to "55 Hikes Around Snoqualmie Pass: Mountains to Sound Greenway" by Harvey Manning and Ira Spring (Mountaineer Books, second edition, 189 pages, $14.95). Call Washington State Parks for more information at 360-902-8844 or visit the Web site www.parks.wa.gov. Park is open year-round. The Iron Horse Trail allows mountain biking and horseback riding (not allowed in the Twin Falls Natural Area). Camping is not allowed.

Karen Sykes is a Queen Anne resident and avid hiker who has been traveling Northwest trails for 20 years.

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