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Monday, April 18, 2005
Salmon: Look for the wild label
Marian Burros, the food critic of The New York Times, recently wrote that "fresh wild salmon from West Coast waters used to have a low profile in New York ... (but) has become the darling of chefs."
But someone fooled the chefs with the wrong darlings.
Burros reported that much of the "wild" salmon was farm raised and was sold under fraudulent pretenses.
Consumers should ask questions about their fish. If 90 percent of the salmon are farmed, then it must be extraordinarily difficult to get the wild cousin. So, ask. What kind of fish? Where was it caught? And is this even the right season?
One way to protect the integrity of wild fish is to prosecute fraud. When people sell farmed fish for as much as $29 a pound, labeled as wild, there's something obviously wrong.
The rest of the country doesn't understand the Northwest's desire to save our wild salmon runs. The selling (and mislabeling) of the farmed variety will only add to the confusion.
The Northwest has a stake in protecting, and marketing, this heritage food source. When it comes to salmon, the real darlings are always wild.
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